Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure
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When you're ready for superb trad climbing in Georgia, you may be ready for Tallulah Gorge. Don't let the touristy Interpretive Center fool you -- when you leave the parking lot and hit the trail into the gorge, you're in wild country and serious climbing territory. This is not a place for beginners or toproping; apart from a handful of moderate lines, the routes at Tallulah are hard multi-pitch trad or mixed aid/trad. The rock is high-quality quartzite, the scenery is beautiful and the exposure will raise your pulse rate.
Because this is a state park, activities other than climbing sometimes take precedence. There are periodic weekend water releases from the dam to facilitate white-water kayaking competitions, at which time Tallulah Gorge is closed to climbing. Unfortunately, these closures are in late fall and early spring, which is prime time for climbing here (like other south-facing crags, Tallulah is not a great summer destination). So wait until kayaking season is over or take a day off during the week. The park will issue a maximum of 20 climbing permits per day, but it is almost unheard of for this limit to be met; Tallulah Gorge is never crowded.
Camping is available on the grounds of the park.
*In October 2022, two climbers had a mishap and were temporarily stranded on a route until roughly 9:00 P.M.. They were charged with criminal trespassing despite having a permit.*
From Atlanta, head north on I-85, then exit to I-985 north. Follow 985 to where it ends, then continue north on US 441 to Tallulah Falls. Cross a bridge that is the dam to the Tallulah River, then watch for the Tallulah Gorge State Park Interpretive Center and turn right into the center. Pay the parking fee, then go to the main building and fill out a climber's permit.
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Birmingham, AL
Joshua Tree
A group of five Ga Tech students "discovered" the gorge in '67 and made climbing trips there practically every [dry] weekend for the next several years. These included Mike Byorick, Steve Poulsen, Mike Kimball, Alan Vandeford and myself Rob Culbertson. We were not great climbers at the time so nailed/aided many of the lines. Three of the group also made the first ground-up ascent of Stone Mountain [immediately left of the carving] over July 4 weekend '69. I have many great photos from this.
[I also have quite a few slides & b&w pix of the gorge and climbs before it was "destroyed" by the circus.] Dec 1, 2007
Decatur, GA
Do you happen to know who did the FA of Mescaline Daydream? I've been dying to find out who that was.
JL Dec 2, 2007
Nederland, CO
Steve Poulsen Jan 16, 2009
Bakewell Mountain, Tn
Clemson, S.C.
Thanks,
John Jun 6, 2014
Boulder, CO
One-for-one bolt replacement projects have been undertaken under the radar. Safety/necessity support these actions, and the projects were conducted during low volume times in the park. As to new routes, bolting could endanger already sensitive climbing access and would likely not be received well by locals. The main wall is all but climbed out. On the other hand, there are still dangerous bolts and open, established (but overgrown) routes that need revitalization. Jun 9, 2014
Atlanta
I highly suggest calling the day before and again the morning on your way there. I was recently (April 2015) denied a permit due to rain 36 hours prior. The Park service can deny permits at their discretion, in our case it was general wetness. We were very disappointed at this. I know a lot of climbers spent an incredible amount of time negotiating with the Park service to even allow climbing here, and to them: thank you. However, in my limited experience (2 visits), I've had to wait 1 hour for their determination and provide an extensive verbal climbing resume before I was given a permit 1st visit, and denied 2nd visit. Apr 27, 2015
Chattanooga, TN
Athens, GA