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p. Little Havana
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Small area, but a good alternative when the larger areas are taken. Very shady, good photo-ops, relatively straightforward gear anchors. Routes in the 5.5-5.10 range. Watch out for wasps.
Exit upper parking lot far end, walk through meadow and past stream, come to large clearing. Make a right on carriage road, then left at the immediate fork. About 50 feet down on the left, there's a blue/yellow-blazed access trail heading towards what looks like a jumbled corner. Follow that trail up and to the right. When you see a dihedral with a small alcove and large chockstone about 30 feet up with a large roof just ahead, you've arrived.