Elevation: 6,300 ft
GPS: 36.537, -105.708 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,544 total · 66/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Howard, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

Description

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.

See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.

The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.

Getting There

Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Stagecoach Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Sunburned
Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Pockets
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunburned
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Pockets
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
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