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Routes in Old Stagecoach Road

Augustin's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Karma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forest's Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkeywrenchin' Momma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No. 1 G S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piton Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Po'Pay's Revolt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pockets S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prow, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stem It Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunburned S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 6,300 ft
GPS: 36.537, -105.708 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,329 total · 51/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.

See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.

The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.

Getting There

Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Stagecoach Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Sunburned
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunburned
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
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Laura Fremgen
Missoula, Montana
Laura Fremgen   Missoula, Montana
There's another route with chains left of The Prow, right of No. 1 G not listed on here...possibly a 5.9? May 6, 2013
Watch out for desert bighorn sheep on top of this crag! My buddy and I came face to face with 3 of them up there this summer. Gave us a good startling moment, could have fallen off the crag if we had jumped a little more. To be fair though, I think we scared them as much as they did us. Just keep an eye out, they blend in amazingly well against the brown-red basalt. Sep 10, 2013

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