Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Mt. Darwin

California > High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pass & Ev…

Description

King of the Evolution Valley - a massive mountain with many long routes. The summit lies detached from the summit plateau, on its southeast side.

Getting There

Eastern Approach:
From Sabrina Lake up to Blue Lake, then Dingleberry Lake. Bear right at the sing for Hungry Packer Lake and head up to Midnight Lake - campsites here. For a shorter approach on the day of the climb keep going and camp/bivi at Blue Heaven Lake.

Darwin Canyon can be reached from Blue Heaven Lake by crossing Darwin Col (12,800ft+). Take the obvious chute just left of a pointed peak - can be snow or scree depending upon the season. This provides access to the North Face routes if you don't want to take the northern approach. The summit day will be correspondingly longer.

Northern Approach:
Getting to Lamarck Col with heavy packs is a whole day event. This is a 6 mile hike with 2,600' elevation gain. Obtain wilderness permits at the ranger station in Bishop (get there early, it's a popular trail and only few passes are given on a walk in basis). Take route 168 to North Lake. Car may be parked at an overnight parking lot 0.5 miles from the trailhead. Begin with 2 miles on well-marked Lamarck Lakes Trail until Upper Lamarck Lake. Continue on X-country trail on the south side of the lake (the lake should be on your right as you pass it). The trail starts with the slight descent into a 100 yard rocky groove, climbs up its southern end, winds and goes up and down for a while until climbing steep slopes towards the plateau before Lamarck Cole. Most bivy sites are located on the western slopes of Lamarck Cole but convenient and less populated bivy sites are also located at the lake just below the Lamarck Col on its eastern side.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow
 1
Direct East Face
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Steep Snow
 12
North Face
Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
Evolution Traverse
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Direct East Face
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
North Face
 12
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Evolution Traverse
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt. Mendel and Mt. Darwin from the outlet of Sapphire Lake - August 2006
[Hide Photo] Mt. Mendel and Mt. Darwin from the outlet of Sapphire Lake - August 2006
Leaving the Evolution Basin after an evening storm. Mt Huxley, the last summit in the traverse, is the main peak in the background.
[Hide Photo] Leaving the Evolution Basin after an evening storm. Mt Huxley, the last summit in the traverse, is the main peak in the background.
Mt. Darwin summit block at sunset
[Hide Photo] Mt. Darwin summit block at sunset
Darwin from Haeckel
[Hide Photo] Darwin from Haeckel
Blue Heaven Lake, east of Mount Darwin.
[Hide Photo] Blue Heaven Lake, east of Mount Darwin.
Lamarck Col as seen from halfway up the North Face of Mt Darwin.
[Hide Photo] Lamarck Col as seen from halfway up the North Face of Mt Darwin.
An emerald tarn below the north side of Mt. Darwin
[Hide Photo] An emerald tarn below the north side of Mt. Darwin
Moon setting on Darwin and Mendel.
[Hide Photo] Moon setting on Darwin and Mendel.
Beginning the climb out of Darwin canyon after skiing the N face of Mt. Darwin
[Hide Photo] Beginning the climb out of Darwin canyon after skiing the N face of Mt. Darwin
Kris Gorny's photo of Darwin from the north (Lamarck Col.)
[Hide Photo] Kris Gorny's photo of Darwin from the north (Lamarck Col.)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] Supporting text for this area originally posted by Kris Gorny under Darwin Canyon. I have copied it here verbatim. Dec 8, 2006