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South Cliffband

New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Cochiti Mesa

Description

This is the cliff section to the SE from the downclimb. With roughly 35 routes, this area offers numerous TR possibilities, and a wide diversity of climbing styles, from difficult thin slabs, to 5.13 cracks, to wild overhangs.

This cliff faces slightly more west than the other crags along the mesa, and so, stays in the shade a bit longer.

Getting There

From the downclimb, head SE, or left. Some routes are approached from rappel from the mesa rim. For these routes, skip the downclimb and head SE along the rim trail.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa)
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Unnamed
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 9
Just Say No to Crack
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Crackerjack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Dynabolic
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
The Prow
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Another Lichen Nightmare
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Dreamscape
Trad, TR
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Shadowdancer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Acid Rain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Rocket in My Pocket
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Finger in the Socket
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Sanadine Dream
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Crystal Suppository
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Illusion Dissolution
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa)
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Unnamed
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Just Say No to Crack
 9
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Crackerjack
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Dynabolic
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Prow
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Another Lichen Nightmare
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dreamscape
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Shadowdancer
 7
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Acid Rain
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rocket in My Pocket
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Finger in the Socket
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sanadine Dream
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystal Suppository
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Illusion Dissolution
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug Couleur on the FA of Kids in Toyland (5.11c), Cochiti Mesa. Photo by Lee Sheftel from Climbing #117 (December 1989/January 1990).
[Hide Photo] Doug Couleur on the FA of Kids in Toyland (5.11c), Cochiti Mesa. Photo by Lee Sheftel from Climbing #117 (December 1989/January 1990).
A view from the South Cliffband (looking back at where the beta photo was taken from).
[Hide Photo] A view from the South Cliffband (looking back at where the beta photo was taken from).
Another beautiful day at Cochiti. Excellent conditions in the morning; gets a little toasty in the afternoon.
[Hide Photo] Another beautiful day at Cochiti. Excellent conditions in the morning; gets a little toasty in the afternoon.
South Cliffband Overview
[Hide Photo] South Cliffband Overview