PRINT: Rock Climbing in Failsafe Wall, Owens River Gorge

Failsafe Wall

California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

This west-facing wall which rises straight out of the river, contains a few gems that you will almost certainly have to yourself. Most routes feature strong evaporative cooling for the belayer.

Sad note for those for whom 11c is their sweet spot: The right side of Failsafe contains a 4 & 3 star 11c's whose starts are now submerged by the river. Maybe some enterprising person will create an access esplanade.

Getting There

Across the river from Warm Out Wall. FS has two sectors separated by the river. River crossing for each sector exist slightly south/downstream of WOW.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 2 ● Thrill Pig Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 7 ● Drill Rig Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 3 ● Crumb Donut Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● Flailsafe pitch 1 Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Flailsafe Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Flailsafe (Retro bolted) Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Controversial Insert Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 18 ● Failsafe Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 2 ● Chompin' at the Bit Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 1 ● Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge Sport

● Thrill Pig

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Drill Rig

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Crumb Donut

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Flailsafe pitch 1

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● Flailsafe

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches

● Flailsafe (Retro bolted)

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches

● Controversial Insert

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● Failsafe

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Chompin' at the Bit

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Hitchhiker's guide to the G…

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The huge corner on pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Scheuerell

Great route, sporty 1st clip. Nov 8, 2014

Adam P
Truckee, CA

My partner and I checked this area out today (10/21/18). Unfortunately, a firm departure time meant we had to leave before getting on Drill Rig or Thrill Pig. It looked like those routes had not been climbed in a while, and it's too bad. They receive a good number of stars in the guidebook, are well bolted, steep, and have a great position on the wall. The bridge may be gone, but stones provide passage across the river. For those competent at the grade, skip the crowds in the Central Gorge and get on these routes. I'll definitely return to do them. Oct 22, 2018