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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully T WI3
Diagonal Gully Mod. Snow
Escape Hatch T Easy Snow
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3 Easy Snow
Elevation: 4,800 ft
GPS: 44.273, -71.287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,549 total · 436/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

NOTE: The summer rock climbs in Huntington Ravine have been moved under "WM:Presidential Summer Rock Routes / Huntington Ravive."

Can be crowded during mid-winter weekends due to its proximity to Boston, Canada & NYC.

Getting There

From Pinkham Notch take the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the Huntington Ravine Trail. This will drop you at the base of all the climbs; quite a beautiful site with many options.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 119
Pinnacle Gully
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI1
 31
Central Gully
Ice, Alpine
WI2-3
 57
Odell's Gully
Ice, Alpine
WI3
 34
Damnation Gully
Trad, Ice, Alpine
WI2-3 Easy Snow
 18
Yale Gully
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3
 11
North Gully
Ice, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
 4
Damnation Buttress
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pinnacle Gully
 119
WI3 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Central Gully
 31
WI1 Ice, Alpine
Odell's Gully
 57
WI2-3 Ice, Alpine
Damnation Gully
 34
WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine
Yale Gully
 18
WI2-3 Easy Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Gully
 11
WI3 Ice, Alpine
Damnation Buttress
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
bradley white   Bend
Huntington Ravine has been climbed since the 1930's. The Pinnacle Buttress climbs vary from extreme aid (North wall above Pinnacle Gully) to easy moderate (East facing face).

Most climbers start Pinnacle at the base of the gully and traverse up south via a ledge ramp onto the face. There are lots of variations but climbing is limited to one section of the buttress. Lots of fixed pins on the crux section on the east face that is the 3rd pitch. So many pins that it can be confusing on this pitch. Basically the more direct and to the right a climber goes on this pitch the harder the climbing is. The hardness is between (5-8 or 9). At this section if a climber breaks out left at the first encounter of difficulty the climbing it will get easier quickly. Also this steep wall of the 3rd pitch can be avoided by climbing far to the left up a ramp at about (5-5). After the 3rd pitch stay near the north edge of the buttress. Highly exposed and easy (5-4) for 2 more pitches up this ridge. From the top of Buttress hike down anyway you want or summit Mt. Washington. I haven't been to the buttress in decades. Then there were no rappel anchors. Escape meant leaving gear. There isn't any special gear needed to do the east face and a minimal trad rack will do with one rope.

The central Gully Buttress head wall is a different story. This area is between Pinnacle and Central Gullies. All the climbs I know of encounter extreme (5-10) moves at least. Route finding is problematic. The wall is about 700+ft. and longer if you include the fourth class finishing after the steep stuff. The climbs have long run outs on the slab sections. It would be best to use a guidebook's route description to ascend this wall.

The rock is unique to N.H. It is coarse and knobby therefore remains sticky in damp conditions. The weather is serious here. Climbers are forced off this area because of sudden temperature drops and it is impossible to see bad weather coming in from the west. It's as alpine as N.H. gets. Views are spectacular. Jun 24, 2009
AWinters   NH  
great description, Bradley. this should be moved to the top of the page. Jan 9, 2011
Jackson Yip
San Jose, CA
Jackson Yip   San Jose, CA
just a heads up, a good thing to know if you are new to the ravine is that there is a guide board showing the routes that are in the ravine just out side of the harvard cabin on the fire road leading to the ravine, it's adjacent to the avalanche board. Sep 13, 2012

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