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Routes in Lower Canyon

Focus Pocus V3-4 6A+
Page Views: 265 total · 2/month
Shared By: nonya on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This collection of okay bouldering lies between I-70 and the town of Minturn off US Highway 24.

Getting There

The Minturn Boulder
This boulder is located just south of I-70 at the Minturn exit. Exit towards Minturn, drive for a minute and then turn off the highway across the bridge. One-minute hike from car. Obvious large boulder.
V3 The Mile* - Climb southwest corner. Very sequential, many moves.
V3** Climb from the pockets up the south face.
V3* Start just right of pocket problem. This problem takes you left across the face; start southeast arete, up left to foot ramp to a (+)hold. Lots of left
V5 Birds of Prey** - Start at the corner feature and traverse across the obvious overhang. Climb straight up on to the roof, find the small pocket and traverse right across the visor thing. To the decent holds and finish straight up with a big throw.
V2* Left side of northeast arete
VO Right side of the northeast arete.
V1* North slab
To the best of my knowledge, the problem going straight up off the Bird of Prey start is undone??
Also of note, it is possible to walk to the Confluence Boulder from here. Go north; hike a 1/4 mile then go under the I-70 highway bridge.

Friction Stone
Fun problem on a chilly day. The friction stone is a stones throw from the Minturn Boulder, by hiking NW from the main block, this rounded mass sits near a telephone pole. Slab problems.
From north to south:
V2 In the sticks Leaning shelf to crimps & up.
V3 Split finger - Start on pebble through bulge to edges
V2 White crystal** - Ascend the prow. Good Problem
VO Princess Kaiu - Pebbles

Dyno Shack
Crappy rock, only warrants one star if you reside in Minturn
Drive on the frontage towards Minturn, behind the green utility structure you will see this lump of stone.
V3 Hail Vail* - The obvious dyno in the middle of the face.
V0 Crack
V0 Corner

The Choad
The Choad is rubbish--Rubbish that would date to perhaps the turn of the century, when the Rail Road ruled the hills. This boulder-sized chunk of pebbles in concrete is host to some to the finest man-made boulder problems in the universe.
Located on the same frontage road as the rest of these problems. Between the road and the river, a greenhouse on the highway will serve as the north-south indicator
Must have crash pads to start on the thick vegetation around the base. On the downriver side you will find these problems:
V4 Industrial Crack*** - Lieback the steep crack in the corner till the jams peter out. Throw to a gash on the corner. Right over roof to top. For a man made features, this is a top 3 "buildering" problem of all time
V2 RR Wreck* - Start as V4 crack and head right up via two and three finger-sized pockets.
VOs Slabs on the river side.
A truly demented classic!

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Photos

T.Dailey
Avon
T.Dailey   Avon
im confused does birds of prey start on two side pulls and throw left to the sloper or is it right more near the knife edge? Jun 11, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
I worked the Birds of Prey direct for a long time, definitely hard. Not sure if anyone has finished it. Mar 14, 2009

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