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Group Camp B
> Governor Dodge SP
Access Issue: DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE
The park has stated that access will be revoked if people keep walking through the campsite to get to the boulders if there are campers there. PARK AT THE BATHROOMS AND HEAD UP THE HILL, CUT RIGHT AND HUG THE CLIFF BAND UNTIL YOU GET TO THE CLIMBS. DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE.
Bouldering at these areas first began in the mid to late 1980's with visits from David Groth and Mike McCarron. Both of them were strong as nails at the time. David always had a preternatural ability to zero in on the best stone and lines around, and Group Camp B is no exception. True to form for that era, little to no documentation took place as bouldering beta was spread by campfires, libations, and scribbled notes on bar napkins rather than the internet. The 1980’s were all about hard free ascents with a rope. It would be a decade before the bouldering boom of Y2K would sweep the climbing world and legitimize bouldering in the eyes of many.
GCB is filled with large separated blocks and short walls of hard grey sandstone. The quality of the stone is excellent for the park, and the bouldering consists of just under or just over vertical lines. A couple steeper lines can be found but they’re short lived pleasures. The highballs truly dominate the pine woods with a broken down palace sort of atmosphere. It is a very nice hang mid week when it’s quiet.
The problems are host to an array of archetypal holds- pockets, crimpers, slopers, pinches, you name it! This stone was made for bouldering. For the most part the climbing here flows well, and with some of the highballs it is more like climbing a route than a "problem".
The area is divided into two sectors. First the Plan B area which is a collection of Boulders and a small wall. Backbone Ridge is a conspicuous ridge of rock which juts out of the hilltop with bouldering on both sides. It’s pretty classic for the Midwest and showcases the park test piece Sandstone Violence which is as good as it gets for the style.
As of 2009 the park rangers have asked us **NOT TO HIKE THROUGH THE CAMPSITES**! Please see thread or map below for alternate ways to get to the problems. There are a lot of different user groups packed into a relatively small area. Common courtesy and respect for the campers experience will go a long way and help keep this gift from the gods open to climbing. Don’t be “that” guy.