PRINT: Bouldering in Group Camp B, Governor Dodge State Park

4. Group Camp B

Wisconsin > South > Governor Dodge SP > Group Camps

Access Issue: DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE Details

The park has stated that access will be revoked if people keep walking through the campsite to get to the boulders if there are campers there. PARK AT THE BATHROOMS AND HEAD UP THE HILL, CUT RIGHT AND HUG THE CLIFF BAND UNTIL YOU GET TO THE CLIMBS. DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE.

Description

Bouldering at these areas first began in the mid to late 1980's with visits from David Groth and Mike McCarron. Both of them were strong as nails at the time. David always had a preternatural ability to zero in on the best stone and lines around, and Group Camp B is no exception. True to form for that era, little to no documentation took place as bouldering beta was spread by campfires, libations, and scribbled notes on bar napkins rather than the internet. The 1980’s were all about hard free ascents with a rope. It would be a decade before the bouldering boom of Y2K would sweep the climbing world and legitimize bouldering in the eyes of many.

GCB is filled with large separated blocks and short walls of hard grey sandstone. The quality of the stone is excellent for the park, and the bouldering consists of just under or just over vertical lines. A couple steeper lines can be found but they’re short lived pleasures. The highballs truly dominate the pine woods with a broken down palace sort of atmosphere. It is a very nice hang mid week when it’s quiet.

The problems are host to an array of archetypal holds- pockets, crimpers, slopers, pinches, you name it! This stone was made for bouldering. For the most part the climbing here flows well, and with some of the highballs it is more like climbing a route than a "problem".

The area is divided into two sectors. First the Plan B area which is a collection of Boulders and a small wall. Backbone Ridge is a conspicuous ridge of rock which juts out of the hilltop with bouldering on both sides. It’s pretty classic for the Midwest and showcases the park test piece Sandstone Violence which is as good as it gets for the style.

Getting There

As of 2009 the park rangers have asked us **NOT TO HIKE THROUGH THE CAMPSITES**! Please see thread or map below for alternate ways to get to the problems. There are a lot of different user groups packed into a relatively small area. Common courtesy and respect for the campers experience will go a long way and help keep this gift from the gods open to climbing. Don’t be “that” guy.

Updated (2009) Group B topo with Plan B Area and the Backbone Ridge split into east side and west side. Alternate approaches are the dotted lines.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated (2009) Group B topo with Plan B Area and the Backbone Ridge split into east side and west side. Alternate approaches are the dotted lines.

Toprope rehearsal for sick highball send.

Aarron S. on High Anxiety V1

No cars, No problem.

JessM way high at the group site B boulders, observe the fantastic spotting.

They closed the road to the Group Camp area and Quall Wall. Dec. 13th 2008.<br>
<br>
We walked in.

They closed the road to the Group Camp area and Quall Wall. Dec. 13th 2008. We walked in.

Aaron Stetzer on Split Personality V5/6

Rough topo. Includes many of the better lines, but not all that have been done.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Remo
Madison, WI

Hey Trav, what we found works well is to drive towards Group site A. Park on the road(doesn't seem like a problem) before the camp and hike straight up the hill. You get to the back of the Plan B ridge near Press it out. From there you can get to the boulders easily. Short approach for sure, and less awkward. Aug 17, 2008

Tradiban

If there are campers in Group Site B do NOT walk through the site!!!! Please either park at the paved parking lot with the multiple bathrooms and walk up the hill or park in the gravel parking lot and head down the road a bit and then up the hill. Park staff were VERY concerned about this! Apr 12, 2009

chris tregge
Madison WI

Nick-- thanks for posting this. I have been at least moderately concerned about this issue since last fall. One day this spring, I was one of 11 (ELEVEN!!!) cars parked to climb at Group B. All it will take is one camping family or group to complain about climbers there to get it looked at. Likewise, please don't yell expletives when you fall off your project. That will make any camping parent cringe and probably complain (yes I've been within earshot of that).

TO REITERATE: 2 options for parking for Backbone/Group B: Park at the bathroom and walk directly uphill. When you get to the cave walk along the ridge to the right. Alternatively, turn left when the road forks (towards site A) and park along the road on the right and walk directly uphill. You will come to Press It Out and then walk northwards to rest of the climbs.

FYI I was parked along the road for Barrel Ridge earlier this spring and when I was walking down from the ridge (sans pad), a ranger was inspecting my car. Asked me if he could help me at all. I said no, I was fine, and he replied that generally the only cars parked on the side of the road were people that were in trouble. I'm still not sure if that is cool or not. Apr 12, 2009

chris tregge
Madison WI

Found this sweet video on Vimeo, hope the author doesn't mind my linking it. Nice job Brent, great video!

vimeo.com/9326114 Jul 19, 2010

Alexander Stathis
Chattanooga, TN

Is this approach beta still accurate? We parked at what we thought were the bathrooms just after the left hand turn to Campsite A (there were showers there also).

We followed what we thought was the marked trail at the back of the parking lot. It started between two disability parking signs, was rather overgrown, and ended about 20 feet in. We bushwacked through a lot of thorny bushes to the base of the cliff and found what we thought was the cave. We headed right from the cave around the base of the cliff bushwacking through a lot more thorny bushes and eventually arrived at the top of the cliff, kept hiking in what we thought was the same direction, and ended up at Press It Out. Needless to say, I wouldn't recommend anyone do this, it seriously sucked.

When we hiked out we tried to the find the trail from below Press It Out to the road. This was arguably more comfortable than our approach, but we did still have to hike through about 15-20ft of thorny bushes in a small valley near the road. Maybe we missed the nice trail? Sep 8, 2016

chris tregge
Madison WI

Yeah the approach from anywhere except through camp B sucks this time of year. If nobody is camped there, that's the easiest. You can come up from the bathrooms or from the A side but don't walk through the B campsite if people are there. Sep 8, 2016

chris tregge
Madison WI

The park has (again) stated that access will be limited/revoked if climbers keep walking through the B campsite to get to the boulders if there are campers there. PARK AT THE BATHROOMS AND HEAD UP THE HILL, CUT RIGHT AND HUG THE CLIFF BAND UNTIL YOU GET TO THE CLIMBS. DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE.

See alternate approach beta in one of several posts above. Aug 22, 2018

Jarrod Patrone
Ithaca, NY

Again, Please don't walk through the group B campsite, or park in the group B parking area, regardless if anyone is there. Make the short walk from the Shower house instead. This is really the only thing the DNR is asking of us so that we can continue climbing here, and IMO the DNR is trying to sustain climber access to this area as they even have handouts/flyers at the park office regarding where to park/instructions from climbing at group camp B.

Also, group camp B can be reserved regardless of your group size for $40.00 per night, if I'm not mistaken. Double check with the friendly staff upfront. Jul 18, 2019

Taylor S

Anyone recommend bouldering here in the summer? Are there many spots we can find shade? Jun 9, 2020

Remo
Madison, WI

Hey Taylor, this is a decent spot in the summer. Like anywhere in Wisconsin, it can be hot and buggy, and obviously the sending temps are later in the fall, but the sandstone is great all year. This whole area is in the woods too, so it's nice and shaded. Some boulders get a lot of sun, but that all depends on the time of day. Good luck and have fun! Jun 9, 2020