Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ad. Arch Rock

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced River Ca…
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the 1,000', multi terraced cliff seen above the road at the Highway 140 entrance station.
"Midterm", "English Breakfast Crack", "Gripper" and "New Dimensions" are a few of the classics found here.

Getting There

Park at the entrance parking lot or across the Hay. at a dirt road.
Head up to the talus then up to the base of the cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
The Bin
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Dirty Little Secret
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 32
Anticipation
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 47
Supplication
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Inner Sanctum
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Application
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
TKO
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Entrance Exam
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Blotto AKA Axis
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Goldilocks
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
The Principle
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 57
English Breakfast Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Mad Dogs Direct
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Sidetrack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 131
Midterm
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Leanie Meanie
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 134
Gripper
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 146
New Dimensions
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Klemens Escape
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Cosmic Messenger
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Torque Converter
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Bin
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Dirty Little Secret
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Anticipation
 32
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Supplication
 47
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Inner Sanctum
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Application
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
TKO
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Entrance Exam
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Blotto AKA Axis
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Goldilocks
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Principle
 5
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
English Breakfast Crack
 57
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Mad Dogs Direct
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sidetrack
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Midterm
 131
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Leanie Meanie
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Gripper
 134
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
New Dimensions
 146
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Klemens Escape
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cosmic Messenger
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Torque Converter
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Post burn regen :)
[Hide Photo] Post burn regen :)
Exfoliated flakes that fell off during the Feguson Fire. This is between Gripper and New Dimensions.
[Hide Photo] Exfoliated flakes that fell off during the Feguson Fire. This is between Gripper and New Dimensions.
Arch Rock from the parking lot below just inside the park at the Arch Rock Entrance.
[Hide Photo] Arch Rock from the parking lot below just inside the park at the Arch Rock Entrance.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
[Hide Comment] Day at Arch as climbing Rostrum:
Climb New Dimensions ( in 3pitches) , Anticipation, Leanny Meany, Blotto, Midterm and Gripper(p1 only) in one day and it would be same as climbing Rostrum in term of length and difficulties. Eight pitches - tree -5.11 and five -5.10.
Add English Breakfast and Supplication and it would be like Astroman? Feb 18, 2010
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] Many of those routes are longer and harder for the grade than their respective pitches on the Rostrum. For instance, Anticipation and Leanie Meanie both feel harder to me than anything on the Rostrum. I think any party capable of that circuit would probably hike the Rostrum in under 2 hours.

As far as Astroman, I don't know because I haven't climbed it. But I'm guessing that there's nothing at Arch Rock which could adequately prepare someone for the Harding Slot. Sep 27, 2011
Nkane 1
East Bay, CA
[Hide Comment] The Arch Rock base got moderately torched by the Ferguson Fire this summer. Things are climbable, but the ground at the base is going to be more susceptible to erosion until vegetation reestablishes itself. Thus extra care should be taken to locate and remain on the approach trail.

To find the best approach trail on the way up, head directly uphill through the talus, aiming for a large, lonely pine tree directly below the climbs. Pass this tree on the left and you'll locate the beat out, solid trail just above. Try not get sucked too far right; this will lead you into loose, ashy debris. Oct 16, 2018