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Routes in Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the 1,000', multi terraced cliff seen above the road at the Highway 140 entrance station.
"Midterm", "English Breakfast Crack", "Gripper" and "New Dimensions" are a few of the classics found here.

Getting There

Park at the entrance parking lot or across the Hay. at a dirt road.
Head up to the talus then up to the base of the cliff.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: Arch Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Arch Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Entrance Exam
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Application
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 93
Midterm
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Gripper
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 37
English Breakfast Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Supplication
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Blotto AKA Axis
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
New Dimensions
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
Leanie Meanie
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Anticipation
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
TKO
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Goldilocks
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
The Principle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Entrance Exam
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Application
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Midterm
 93
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Gripper
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
English Breakfast Crack
 37
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Supplication
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Blotto AKA Axis
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
New Dimensions
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Leanie Meanie
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Anticipation
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
TKO
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Goldilocks
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Principle
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Arch Rock »

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Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Day at Arch as climbing Rostrum:
Climb New Dimensions ( in 3pitches) , Anticipation, Leanny Meany, Blotto, Midterm and Gripper(p1 only) in one day and it would be same as climbing Rostrum in term of length and difficulties. Eight pitches - tree -5.11 and five -5.10.
Add English Breakfast and Supplication and it would be like Astroman? Feb 18, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Many of those routes are longer and harder for the grade than their respective pitches on the Rostrum. For instance, Anticipation and Leanie Meanie both feel harder to me than anything on the Rostrum. I think any party capable of that circuit would probably hike the Rostrum in under 2 hours.

As far as Astroman, I don't know because I haven't climbed it. But I'm guessing that there's nothing at Arch Rock which could adequately prepare someone for the Harding Slot. Sep 27, 2011
nkane  
The Arch Rock base got moderately torched by the Ferguson Fire this summer. Things are climbable, but the ground at the base is going to be more susceptible to erosion until vegetation reestablishes itself. Thus extra care should be taken to locate and remain on the approach trail.

To find the best approach trail on the way up, head directly uphill through the talus, aiming for a large, lonely pine tree directly below the climbs. Pass this tree on the left and you'll locate the beat out, solid trail just above. Try not get sucked too far right; this will lead you into loose, ashy debris. Oct 16, 2018

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