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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13
Bullett T WI3 M6
Central Couloir Right T M2
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow
Left of Cleft 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3 Steep Snow
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow
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Elevation: 11,000 ft
GPS: 40.308, -105.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,166 total · 159/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is an organizational entry for the Tyndall Gorge to assist with clarity in the database.

Hallett Peak is probably better known as a moderate, close-in, backcountry, alpine crag. Once, it had the aura of a difficult Norwand. During the colder months (most of the year), certain freeze-thaw cycles can align to create a variety of interesting mixed lines here. Probably the most famous is Hallett Chimney. This was listed in G. Randall's 1983 Vertigo Games with a wonderful shot of Dick Jackson on the FA of the route. Since, it has become an almost Grail-like goal for the mixed-Colorado-aficienado. Subsequently, others have quietly sought devious, mixed adventures on this playground.

Within the database:

Below:

East Ridge, mod snow

L=>R:

A. The Cleft, 5.8 M4, 5p, 600'.
B. Bullett, WI3+ M6+, 1p, 130'.
C. Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress, M4-5, 5p, 1000'.
D. Hallett Chimney, M5+, 4-6p, 900'.
E. Englishman's Route, M5-6, 6p, 900'.
F. The Slit, M5-6, 5p, 900'.
G. Tyndall Gully, moderate snow, 800'.

Within this subarea, you will only find the ice/mixed/snow routes.

Getting There

Once on the eastern side of RMNP, drive to the end of the Bear Lake Rd. Occasionally, this road will be closed due to snow clearing efforts. Hike 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake. Skirt the lake on the S/left side towards the obvious large rock buttress (900' tall). Note, there is a buried talus field here under all the snow. Hike up to the base. Expect at least a 75 minute approach. You'll gain probably 1500'.

For a quick link to the rock routes on Hallett

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!

vimeo.com/46682563 Nov 27, 2012

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