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Warpath Dome
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Cochise Stronghold
> W Stronghold
Description
Warpath Dome is described in Bob Kerry's 1997 guide Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. It doesn't get much traffic despite having the classic route Warpath.
The main face of this granite dome faces west, and gets shade until the afternoon. The rock quality is good. The Crackathon Area is on the right/southwest flank of Warpath Dome.
The crag itself doesn't have access issues, but the approach could; see below.
Getting There
To drive to this area, take Middlemarch Road from Tombstone for about 10 miles (or, from the east, come over Middlemarch Pass), then turn left on the Forest Service Road (687?) and follow it north along the west side of the Dragoons for about 30 minutes. Shortly before the road swings right and goes east into West Stronghold Canyon, look for a short dirt track that branches off to the right at a little rise. Park here. You can confirm that you are in the right spot by finding two barbed-wire fences that meet to form a corner about 100-200 feet to the north-west.
This is a new approach, NOT the original approach described in Kerry '97, which goes through what is now occupied private property. (See the attached satellite photo.) You do NOT want to park at the old stage stop ruins; if you find yourself there, drive a few hundred yards back south on the forest road to the new parking spot.
The approach initially goes west, paralleling one of the barbed-wire fences. See the attached satellite photo. As of Summer 2006, one path through the network of cow paths had been somewhat enhanced, but don't work too hard at picking the optimal path.
After about 5 minutes, the barbed-wire fence corners to the left/north, and you should too. Briefly walk north along the ridge before angling down to the right into a wash. After following this wash 100-200 feet, the foot of a ridge will appear on your right. It has several eroded trails up it, and maybe some cairns marking them. Get yourself on top of that ridge.
From that point on, the trail is distinct and well-marked. After another minute or two farther along the approach, it will finally start climbing. Time for the complete approach is about 40 minutes.
[Hide Photo] Beta Photo featuring additional details about the approach to Warpath Dome
[Hide Photo] Warpath Dome from the new parking spot. Photo labels relative locations of the route Warpath and the Crackathon climbs (Fax Crack and Driven by Fear)
[Hide Photo] Parking and approach for Warpath Dome.
[Hide Comment] "Please, when climbing in the stronghold - unless you know for sure- do not carry a drill. There are at least 1,000 routes done in the area...." Maybe someday there will be a comprehensive guidebook, so we can know for sure.
Jul 1, 2007
[Hide Comment] We descended Warpath, as per Kerry's recommendation, via the walk-off. It's gotta be better to rap. But we weren't sure of our options there. Still can't comment on what rappelling would require. In any case we scouted it out, got all poked up, and can steer you clear. It is worth, however, scrambling above the rap anchors to check out a classic Cochise summit. Plates, holes, boulders, lichen... it's sweet up there.
Nov 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] Any beta regarding the bolts on the face near Warpath? Rapped the route in February and came across several anchors and lines. Seemed like there were a lot of them... Let me know if I'm blowing the cover on somebody's secret spot, I'll remove the post (in exchange for some beta ;) ) I just returned to AZ and was looking to head back to Cochise this fall armed with new route info.
Sep 16, 2014
[Hide Comment] I had some difficulty finding the approach trail so I took some GPS coordinates on my way back to the car. Here are some additional details about the approach and another beta photo. After walking north along the ridge and angling down to the right into a wash, I got confused because the wash has three main forks. It's important to head upstream in the right-most (south) fork which follows a south-east heading. This fork was somewhat choked with dead fall. Eventually this (south) fork of the wash peters out where you will find a trail of cairns leading up and to the left onto the ridge between the south fork and middle fork of the main wash. From there the trail is easy to follow.
Dec 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] The photo second from the right if you look to right at the bottom of the blue line there is a crack that splits a rock formation it is a 5.10 climb that is called Lone Justice. One bolt, gear to a over hanging hand crack 70 feet . As you approach warpath dome there is a split in the trail, left takes you to Warpath if you look to your right you will see a rock formation that looks like a dragon head or fig as some of my friends would say. as you face that direction, pan to your left you see a crack through a top of a small wall formation until you walk over there and it drops down into a gully. Most people walk by all the time without any notice. I have upset a few people when I bag the the first because they thought it was nothing. I hope this helps?
Jan 28, 2018
If you are interested in the rest of the routes on this wall, they are detailed in my new book, Toofast Topos 2. Information on this book can be found using the the "guidebooks" link here. Enjoy!
Dec 30, 2018
[Hide Comment] The route in the middle with rap station is three pitches, there are more bolts to the left of war path about 50 ft. follow the bolts to a number 2 old Camelot placement in a hole then to anchors which are 1 new bolt and you sling a chicken head. 5.10b/c. It is not called state of the art???? the route name is LOST HORIZON.
Dec 31, 2018
[Hide Comment] Thanks Richard, there is a route left of Warpath just as you described that is not on the posted topo. I emailed you with specifics on this and will update the route names accordingly once we have talked. Thanks and happy new year!
Dec 31, 2018
[Hide Comment] The route referenced as "State of the Art" is named wrong. I led the FA of the route and gave it a similar but different name. The State of the Art name came about as a foggy memory of my belayer---and it was passed onto other uninformed persons. The route referenced as State of the Art was done several years prior to the FA of Lost Horizon. The section of climbing on Lost Horizon that climbs up to and above the #2 cam pocket is yet another route that was done several years prior to FA of Lost Horizon also. For the sake of safety, best not to rely on topos from folks not familiar with the dome.
Jun 6, 2021
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Williston, ND
Maybe someday there will be a comprehensive guidebook, so we can know for sure. Jul 1, 2007
Victor, ID
Casper, wy
Let me know if I'm blowing the cover on somebody's secret spot, I'll remove the post (in exchange for some beta ;) ) I just returned to AZ and was looking to head back to Cochise this fall armed with new route info. Sep 16, 2014
Cedar City, UT
Tucson/DMR
toofasttopos.com/free/warpa…
If you are interested in the rest of the routes on this wall, they are detailed in my new book, Toofast Topos 2. Information on this book can be found using the the "guidebooks" link here. Enjoy! Dec 30, 2018
Cedar City, UT
Tucson/DMR
The State of the Art name came about as a foggy memory of my belayer---and it was passed onto other uninformed persons. The route referenced as State of the Art was done several years prior to the FA of Lost Horizon. The section of climbing on Lost Horizon that climbs up to and above the #2 cam pocket is yet another route that was done several years prior to FA of Lost Horizon also. For the sake of safety, best not to rely on topos from folks not familiar with the dome. Jun 6, 2021