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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 4,818 ft
GPS: 38.777, -120.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,590 total · 290/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.

Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.

Getting There

Head up and right from the base of the rock.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: Sugarloaf, East Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf, East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 33
Harding's Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 105
Scheister
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Morticia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 110
Farley
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
The Fang-Left Side
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Swallowtail
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 100
Dominion
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Blue Velvet
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Crushed Velvet
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 97
The Fracture
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 46
Taurus
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 14
Telesis
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Beast of Burden
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Captain Fingers
Trad
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 6
Grand Illusion
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Harding's Chimney
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Scheister
 105
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Morticia
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Farley
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Fang-Left Side
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Swallowtail
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Dominion
 100
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Blue Velvet
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Crushed Velvet
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Fracture
 97
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Taurus
 46
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Telesis
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Beast of Burden
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Captain Fingers
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Grand Illusion
 6
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf, East Face »

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