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Routes in Pocket Rocks

A day in the life of Rommstein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Al Takes a Ride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carnivorous Bitch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chip's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crunch Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cacti Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flake And Bake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Electrifying S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Pinnacle, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Route, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Master Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mini- Houser Buttress S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mustache Mayhem S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Renacuajo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route "O" TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sabie's Eight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shorty's Nightmare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surmounting The Sumo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Utah Claw S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Found by the Bob Draney and company in the early 90's, this area has evolved into a great sport climbing area. There is a trad route or two out there as well. The rock faces south, so it boils in warm weather, while you can crank on colder days quite happily. One of Cedar City's first crags.

The rock is welded tuff and it is kind of sharp, but nothing too bad. The routes are on average about 60 feet long, so you can bring minimal draws and a short rope if you're so inclined.

Getting There

Take the 2nd Cedar City exit (exit #59) and go west on 200 N. This road brings you out past the factories and the other industrial-type stuff. Keep to the highway proper.

As you are headed out of town towards the west hills, rock outcroppings appear on your right hand side, the first is Sprocket Rocks, keep driving about 3 minutes and look for the closer (to the road) formations of rock, this is Pocket Rocks. A well-traveled trail leads one up to the cliffs.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pocket Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
Just wanted to let everyone know there are ticks year round out at Pocket and Sprocket rocks as well as Swett Hills. We went out January 2nd 2017 and yep there were ticks on our pup. Jan 2, 2017
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
the approach road is good to go, a little rough for the last hundred yards or so. Sep 28, 2014
The BLM has recently shredded much of the pinyon/juniper scrub at the base of the Swett Hills. The area looks like the Martian devastated landscape from the 2005 movie War of the Worlds. A side effect of this landscape "improvement" is that the approach road is obscured by brush and not passable for 2WD vehicles. Jul 2, 2013
The guidebook says, "Park at the end of the road, and then backtrack on foot 100' to the trail..."

It should say," Park at the end of the road, and the trail is up and to your left."

Many climbers get lost here, backtrack down the road and end up in between Pocket Rocks and Sprocket Rocks. May 18, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
We followed the directions in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition (turn right onto a dirt road .5 miles past the "public lands" sign, stay left at each fork) and managed to get to within about 1/8 mile of the approach trailhead in the low-clearance family minivan. The road wasn't horrible, and only elicited occasional cries of, "What do you think you're doing to my car?!", usually heard immediately following ominous scraping noises.

Contrary to the guidebook, the trail starts at the road's end and was marked by a cairn with a stick in it. Oct 22, 2008

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