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Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location. Know it? Let us know.

Routes in Sprocket Rocks

A View To Kill S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cedar Variation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
De-Appendix Day S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Embryology Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
FA of the Day V2 5+
Fiesta At Elmo's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For your eyes only S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irie Heights S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jarcus Mensen V3 6A
Line Between Light and Dark S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lip before clip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missy's Playhouse S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rimjob S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Septic Death S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Super Grover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ticks on Parade T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Harlem S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Developed by Troy Anderson in the mid 90's this area has a bit more of a trad feel. When you clip his bolts just remember he hand drilled all of them! There were a few others who put up routes here but Troy had the vision.

Climbing crimps and pockets, you'll enjoy the wood ticks and revel in the sun of this area. We have had dogs get as many as 30+ ticks on them in a single outing, so maybe leave Fido at home.

Getting There

Take the 2nd Cedar City exit and go west on 200 N. This road brings you out past the factory's and the other industrial type stuff. As you are headed out of town towards the west hills rock outcroppings appear on your right hand side, the first is Sprocket Rocks. There is some petroglyphs that are roadside, please do not climb on these. (there is a tempting looking route under them, don't be tempted!) Try to find the right rally road on your right and drive up into the Junipers. There used to be a well marked trail leading to the crag.

18 Total Climbs

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Photos

Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
To orient yourself at this crag:

When approaching the hillside, the formation known as, 'Embryology Rock' is distinctively darker then the rest of the rocks in this area. Embryology rock formation has the climbs: Fiesta at Elmo's, Super Groover, and Embryology crack (and others I haven't climbed)

Then look slightly to the East scanning for a rock wall featuring a small roof midway up with white stainy streak to its left and you'll be looking at Missy's Playhouse and Septic Death area.

Short but fun crag with heaps of moderates and great sun exposure. We climbed out there in shorts on New Years Eve!

Also walked by a couple of boulders below that have great landings (watch out for the cacti) and offer quite a few V-fun boulder problems Dec 31, 2013
Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
Just wanted to let everyone know there are ticks year round out at Pocket and Sprocket rocks as well as Swett Hills. We went out January 2nd 2017 and yep there were ticks on our pup. Jan 2, 2017

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