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Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● The Limey |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches | ||
● The Grimy |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● The Prow (lower pitches) |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● The Prow |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches | ||
● The Prow Right |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad | ||
● Short Cake |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Labyrinth |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
● The Open Book |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Turkey Beard |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Lost in Space |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 Trad, Aid 2 pitches | ||
● Out of sight out of mind |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
● Iguana Crack |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches | ||
● S. D. Modiano |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Rattlesnake Crack |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Heckfire Left var. |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Skunk Crack |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Land of the little people |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Cryptic Trip |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
● Trinidad |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Brothers Start |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
● The Mummy |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches | ||
● False Mummy |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Baby's Traverse |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Sister Seagull |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches | ||
● All Tough: No Love |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 4 pitches | ||
● The Daddy |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Good Heavens variation (a.k… |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Good Heavens |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Good Heavens Prow |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Holy Moses |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches |
Lander, WY
The Daddy was awesome. Highly recommend.
Winston-Salem, NC
Salt Lake
Sylva, NC
Lake Norman, NC
Charlotte, NC
We had doubles of everything, but even with linking pitches, we found that we had more than enough gear by the time we finished each climb. You likely don't need more than singles for these climbs as although the pro you get it very good, it can be limited from time to time.
My recommendation is to not underestimate the time it takes to hike in and out. I didn't time it, but I would guesstimate that even if you have all of your gear sorted and knowing who is going to lead the first pitch, by the time you hike in, drop a bag off at the flat rock, hike to the rappel, rappel, and then go to one of the climbs, you are looking at 1.5-2 hours before you are tied in and ready to climb. The hike out from the prow (with exhausted legs and some minor gear sorting at the flat rock) took probably 45 mins-1 hour. Oct 1, 2018
Asheville, NC
Seattle, WA
--We were able to do the whole link in under 11 hrs with decent breaks, no super rush, no crowds, plenty of time for pictures, and decent amount of way-finding in the gully itself.
-It took us 25 mins to get to the trail marker and an additional 35 mins to get to the start of the Mummy.
-Rappel at the back of the Mummy Buttress is easy and can be done with a 50m rope. There is a concern your rope can become stuck when pulled.
-The Prow P3 and P4 can be linked but communication becomes an issue
0706 - Left parking lot
0730 - Arrive at White Rock trail marker to amphitheater
0810 - Arrive at base of climb
0840 - Start climb on The Mummy
---Link P1 and P2, stop at large belay ledge, P3 to ledge with trees then scramble at top to get to rap gully
1030 - End Mummy (1h 50m)
1100 - Start Rappel
1140 - Start Daddy
---Link P1 and P2, short pitch P3 through direct variation. Link P4, P5. Party in front of us
1340 - End Daddy (2h) followed by nap
1420 - Start Rappel again
1540 - Start Prow
---P1, Free P2, Link P3 and P4
1700 - End prow (1h 20m)
1730 - Hike out
1740 - Back at white trail marker
1804 - Back at Car Apr 25, 2019
Salt Lake City, UT
caltopo.com/m/JPAV May 7, 2021
Denver, CO
The flat rock is about 10-15 feet down the left hand turn that takes you to the rap-gulley, so don't expect it to be right off the trail. Furthermore, there are no cairns on the flat rock but the flat rock is an obvious step-up. The trail continues on the other side.
At the end of the mummy buttress trail, there is a small down climb spot that leads to the rap-gulley. We were not aware that the trail included a small down climb, so this confused us until Brandon scouted the area past the down climb.
The rap-gulley has rappel rings that are affixed to the backside of the mummy buttress, and they are bomber as of this post. Moreover, the rappel is probably only 40 or 50 feet from the bolts to the ground.
Brandon linked the first two pitches of the prow (starting from the higher start) with a 70 meter but experienced some intense rope drag and found himself a bit off route because the second pitch is a sea of slab. Additionally, while belaying, I had to simul up to the first gear placement in a horizontal slot (about 30-40 ft up) in order for Brandon to reach the end of the second pitch. As such, I would not recommend linking those two pitches.
We used the rap-gulley all three times and left our gear under a roofy boulder just above the trail that leads down to the rap-gulley. So, for the last route (the prow) we wore our backpacks for the climb. Dec 16, 2021