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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Pat and Jack is an excellent crag that is often bypassed for the more popular crags nearby, but it hosts a number of superb routes that are well worth the short walk. This is a steep wall, that has a number of knobs along it which allows the splitter cracks to be done at slightly more moderate grades. Some pitches to try include Sherrie's crack, Knob Job and the Tube. Similar weather as for Cookie Cliff with lots of sun for fall / winter climbing.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Find a parking area off Hwy 140, west of the Cascade Creek bridge and park on the south side of the road. Cross 140 and find a climbers trail that heads directly up the hill. The trail will lead to Knuckleheads, and Knob Job.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
You probably climbed Kiddie Corner (5.10a, FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 2000s). Bolted face leading into a right-facing corner. Requires two ropes to rap unless you swing over to the left and make a second rap off the anchors for one of those short new sport routes. Nov 6, 2015
T-rack
Merced, CA
T-rack   Merced, CA
Anyone know about the climb to the right of Suds? There were about 5 bolts leading up to a dihedral crack where I placed two pieces of pro and then mantled up to the next bolt and then a set of anchors off to the right by some dirt, and loose stuff. It was just left of the gully and my friends had to climb through the tree a bit. Anyone know any other info about this? Nov 5, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The tips crack to the right of Desperate Straights (the chimney flake) is called Cat's Squirrel. 5.12a to the first set of anchors (FA: Bill Price, Augie Klein, 1980), or 5.12b to the second set of anchors (FA: Dimitri Barton, Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Rick Lovelace, et al, 1989). Feb 6, 2015
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
Anybody have info on the climbs between desperado and nine lives? Bolted line to the left of nine lives felt hard and a bit dirty, is it new? The thin splitter just right of the chimney and desperado looks awesome, anybody done it? Jan 31, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I have found Pat and Jack to be one of the most reliable winter crags in Yosemite. The day after a storm, when every crack at the Cookie is seeping water, most routes at Pat and Jack will already be dry. Sep 16, 2011

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