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Routes in Five and Dime Cliff

? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Markery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Five and Dime Cliff is a smaller crag down the hillside from the Reeds Parking pullout. It has some excellent shorter pitches ranging from trad to bolted, and provides a nice alternative if all of your planned routes at Reed's are occupied. The crag does get sun throughout the day, like Reed's, and has fantastic views of the Merced river and the Rostrum. Rock quality is excellent overall, and your standard Yosemite rack should suffice. Pitches are 70 - 130 feet, some routes have lowering anchors, others are walk off from the top.

Getting There

Start from the Reed's parking pullout (b/w the tunnels on Hwy 120), and walk toward the eastern tunnel. As you walk along the road, look for a small climbers trail heading down the slope. The trail starts right at the tunnel, behind the sign that gives the tunnel height. Don't follow the quasi-trails that are right below the parking area. Navigate the loose dirt trail through the trees and head toward the cliff. This trail will circle around to the base of the cliff, and the approach time is roughly 10 minutes, although longer for the walk back out.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Five and Dime Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Inner Reaches
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Keystone Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 162
Mockery
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Copper Penny
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 66
Bijou
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Markery
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 127
Five and Dime
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Whack and Dangle
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
Nickel Bag
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
The Anti-Christ
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Ride the Lightning
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Inner Reaches
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Keystone Corner
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mockery
 162
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Copper Penny
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bijou
 66
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Markery
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Five and Dime
 127
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Whack and Dangle
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Nickel Bag
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Anti-Christ
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ride the Lightning
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Five and Dime Cliff »

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Photos

The trail starts right at the tunnel, behind the sign that gives the tunnel height. Don't follow the quasi-trails that are right below the parking area. Oct 26, 2012
Newer guidebooks list several climbs far to the right of Five and Dime, but little information. I would love it if people would post information on more climbs.

Halleywood 5.9
In particular, the next-to-last rightmost climb is called Halleywood. There are a line of bolts on a detached flake; the edge is at the right side, the bolts are some 4 feet to the left. The first bolt is some 12 feet off a sloping big block that is perhaps another 10 feet off the ground above sharp rocks and tree- nasty nasty fall potential. The rock is licken-ey, maybe OK, but looks like very hard 5.9 and very steep and very hard to first bolt with no hands of any kind. It would be possible to layback the edge - but then it's a 4foot plus reach to the bolts. How do people do this? Is it just faith, prayer, and testosterone to the first bolt???

Thanks,

-TPC Oct 11, 2016
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
Climbed here on 5/8/18. There were black widows galore at the first roof between Mark of the Squirrel and Holey Gully (between Anti-Christ and Inner Reaches). May 8, 2018

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