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Routes in 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

The Five and Dime Cliff is a smaller crag down the hillside from the Reeds Parking pullout. It has some excellent shorter pitches ranging from trad to bolted, and provides a nice alternative if all of your planned routes at Reed's are occupied. The crag does get sun throughout the day, like Reed's, and has fantastic views of the Merced river and the Rostrum. Rock quality is excellent overall, and your standard Yosemite rack should suffice. Pitches are 70 - 130 feet, some routes have lowering anchors, others are walk off from the top.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Start from the Reed's parking pullout (b/w the tunnels on Hwy 120), and walk toward the eastern tunnel. As you walk along the road, look for a small climbers trail heading down the slope. The trail starts right at the tunnel, behind the sign that gives the tunnel height. Don't follow the quasi-trails that are right below the parking area. Navigate the loose dirt trail through the trees and head toward the cliff. This trail will circle around to the base of the cliff, and the approach time is roughly 10 minutes, although longer for the walk back out.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

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Newer guidebooks list several climbs far to the right of Five and Dime, but little information. I would love it if people would post information on more climbs.

Halleywood 5.9
In particular, the next-to-last rightmost climb is called Halleywood. There are a line of bolts on a detached flake; the edge is at the right side, the bolts are some 4 feet to the left. The first bolt is some 12 feet off a sloping big block that is perhaps another 10 feet off the ground above sharp rocks and tree- nasty nasty fall potential. The rock is licken-ey, maybe OK, but looks like very hard 5.9 and very steep and very hard to first bolt with no hands of any kind. It would be possible to layback the edge - but then it's a 4foot plus reach to the bolts. How do people do this? Is it just faith, prayer, and testosterone to the first bolt???

Thanks,

-TPC Oct 11, 2016
The trail starts right at the tunnel, behind the sign that gives the tunnel height. Don't follow the quasi-trails that are right below the parking area. Oct 26, 2012

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