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Routes in Lyell Canyon and Donahue Pass

Kuna Crest T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Kuna Crest Traverse - Mammoth Peak to Kuna Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

Description

High altitude climbing. And the highest mountain peak in all the park. For the most part it isn't that hard of climbing as most is class 3-4 however there is a little class 5 stuff no harder than 5.8+.

The hike over the glacier will require crampons and an axe is advisable, since injury here is not a pretty as to its remote location.

The views are incredible and make this a favorite area of mine.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Lyell Canyon trailhead is on Tuolumne Lodge Road off 120 in the meadows.

Take the Pacific Crest Trail south, where it soon joins the John Muir trail, heading generally southeast. This follows the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River up Lyell Canyon, to many destinations.

After about 14 miles you will reach Donahue Pass.

To reach the northern routes of Mount Lyell from there, turn right at Mount Rogers and Electra Peak. Hike up Lyell Glacier and choose your poison.

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I've climbed all the peaks in this area, but nothing with a rope. There is some amazing stuff around the area. I was told some Vogelsang High Camp alumni have put routes up there. Dawson? I'll ponder the names a bit, but I've seen old hand drawn topos at some of the High Camps. Don't know if they are still there.

The Kuna Crest is a traverse test piece that I can't get out of my mind even years later. Bring a rope for it if you do it. I think it is in the Peaks Passes and Trails book. Mammoth Peak to Kuna Peak with many high points in between. Trying to find good info on it can be tough. You might wonder why it is obscure even though it dominates the area between Gibbs and Lyell. May 4, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Mount Lyell has been added to the High Sierra Section. Aug 10, 2009
Greg Gibson
Napa, Ca
Greg Gibson   Napa, Ca
I just got back from the end of Lyell Canyon around Donahue Pass. I was wondering if any one else has considered climbing much in the area.

There are some just beautiful walls up there. Aug 6, 2006

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