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Elevation: 1,036 ft
GPS: 37.73404, -83.66188
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 144,782 total · 681/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

The Zoo is probably best known for a pair of short, classic 5.12a routes at the The Old Zoo right next to each other with each route climbing markedly different from the other. Hippocrite involves big moves on mostly all big good holds. Scar Tissue serves up steeper, more sustained climbing on smaller but still great holds. The Old Zoo also contains a very nice and popular wall full of 5.11s, as well as some slab routes in the 5.9/5.10 range. 

While The Zoo used to only consist of what is now known as The Old Zoo, further development in 2012 and 2013 opened up two new areas of the cliffline: The New Zoo and the Bird Cage Sector.

Development has continued sporadically with lines like Zookeeper added in 2016 and Eye of the Liger in 2021. 

The Old Zoo is generally south-facing but due to the adjacent cliff and the angle of the sun, the left side of the cliff quickly goes into the shade in the morning. The right side of the cliff (Zookeeper and the slab lines) stays in the sun into the afternoon. There is also a good bit of tree shade. The New Zoo and Bird Cage Sector face northeast and are generally shady. Many of the routes at The Zoo stay dry in the rain. 

Getting There Suggest change

From Miguel's Pizza head south on KY 11 to a large, gravel parking area, 37.7334, -83.6591, on the west side of KY 11. This parking area is owned by Hop's (the restaurant / beer store) and is the shared parking area for The Zoo and Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag).

From the parking area, hike west/southwest towards the river. Usually, unless the water level is high, you can walk across rocks in the river without getting your feet wet. There used to be a log crossing over this river but that no longer exists. After crossing the river, follow the well-established climber's trail to the left for a couple hundred feet, then turn right uphill to continue on the trail that is just right of a side drainage/ravine and continue steeply uphill for another five minutes.

When you reach a small arch at the top of the trail, pass through it (or around it to the left) and walk along the base of the wall a short bit and you're there. This area, to the left of the small arch, is the most well-known and established area, The Old Zoo.

If you go to the right when you reach the small arch, you get to The New Zoo. The New Zoo is a collection of newer routes. The New Zoo area begins with the route Sidewinder (5.12b).

If you continue along the wall beyond the The New Zoo, down the hill and down around the cave area, you get to a newer area called the Bird Cage Sector. The Bird Cage Sector begins with the route Sons of Perdition (5.12a).

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Zoo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 254
Put Me In The Zoo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 163
Botanical Gardens
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 256
One Brick Shy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 508
Monkey in the Middle
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Monkey's Egg
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 275
Geezers Go Sport
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Romance Explosion
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 131
Lynx Jinx
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
Crimpin' Ain't Easy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 346
Hippocrite
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 219
Scar Tissue
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Sons of Perdition
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Spiral Snake
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 35
Eager Beaver
Sport
5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 5
Zookeeper
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Put Me In The Zoo Old Zoo
 254
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Botanical Gardens Bird Cage Sector
 163
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
One Brick Shy Old Zoo
 256
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Monkey in the Middle Old Zoo
 508
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Monkey's Egg New Zoo
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Geezers Go Sport Old Zoo
 275
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Romance Explosion Bird Cage Sector
 79
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lynx Jinx Old Zoo
 131
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Crimpin' Ain't Easy Bird Cage Sector
 43
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hippocrite Old Zoo
 346
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Scar Tissue Old Zoo
 219
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sons of Perdition Bird Cage Sector
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Spiral Snake Old Zoo
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eager Beaver Bird Cage Sector
 35
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Zookeeper Old Zoo
 5
5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
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