|GPS:||37.734, -83.662 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Oct 4, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionThe Zoo is a bit of a misnomer as the real zoo atmosphere is across the highway at Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag). If you're looking for fewer crowds and a good variety of climbs, this zoo is for you.
The Zoo is probably best know for a pair of short, classic 5.12a routes at the The Old Zoo right next to each other with each route climbing markedly different from the other. Hippocrite involves big moves on mostly all big good holds. Scar Tissue serves up steeper, more sustained climbing on smaller but still great holds.
The Zoo has seen a bit of a revival in recent years with a flurry of development at two new walls north of the older area thus necessitating a renaming of the original Zoo area, here on Mountain Project, to The Old Zoo and adding the two new areas: The New Zoo and the Bird Cage Sector.
The middle portion of The Old Zoo has some fun, long 5.11s on somewhat lesser but still plenty good rock.
The The Old Zoo area is a large amphitheater that faces mostly north but because the wall curves, you can chase sun/shade pretty well. Many of the better routes stay dry in rain.
Getting ThereFrom Miguel's Pizza head south on KY 11 to a large, gravel parking area (37.7334, -83.6591>Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag).
From the parking area, hike west/southwest towards the river. Apparently there used to be a log crossing over this river but that no longer exists. Take your shoes off, ford the river and find the climber's trail on the other side. Scramble up a very steep, rooty section of trail just right of a side drainage/ravine and continue steeply uphill for another five minutes.
When you reach a small arch at the top of the trail, pass through it (or around it to the left) and walk along the base of the wall a short bit and you're there. This area, to the left of the small arch, is the most well-known and established area, The Old Zoo.
If you go to the right when you reach the small arch, you get to The New Zoo. The New Zoo is a collection of newer routes. The New Zoo area begins with the route Sidewinder (5.12b).
If you continue along the wall beyond the The New Zoo, down the hill and down around the cave area, you get to a newer area called the Bird Cage Sector. The Bird Cage Sector begins with the route Sons of Perdition (5.12a).
Classic Climbing Routes at The Zoo
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season