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Routes in Torrent Falls

Bandolier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bare Metal Teen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Money Grip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Centerfire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cordelia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Del Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dream of a Bee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Values S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hmmm T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Ode to Poopie Head S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pussy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poopie Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Racer X S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reanimator S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Receiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Recoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rest Assured S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seek The Truth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sex Show S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport for Brains S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steelworker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stool Sample S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tourist Trap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Us and Them S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wadcutter AKA "Gumby Killer" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windy corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

Apart from some limited exceptions, Torrent Falls is closed to the general public. This great crag is a stark example of how thoughtless climbers can endanger access.

For years, climbing was allowed at this privately-owned crag in the Natural Bridge region. Hard sport routes like Bare Metal Teen and Steelworker attracted climbers wanting to sample some of the best of the Red.

Unfortunately, Torrent also attracted too many people with no consideration of the property owner's wishes. After one too many instances of dealing with climbers' dogs (which were not allowed) and people peeing outdoors in full view of his guests, the owner had had enough and shut down the crag to climbing.

Currently, it is possible to climb at Torrent only if you're a paying guest at the Torrent Falls Bed and Breakfast. Reportedly, people attending monthly meetings of the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition (held at the B&B) can also climb there at that time. All other climbing is off limits.

Getting There

The Torrent Falls B&B is about five miles south of Miguel's on KY 11.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Torrent Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Cordelia
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Tourist Trap
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 66
Wadcutter AKA "Gumby Killer"
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
Pocket Pussy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Bandolier
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Windy corner
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Receiver
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Centerfire
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Bare Metal Teen
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Big Money Grip
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cordelia
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tourist Trap
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wadcutter AKA "Gumby Killer"
 66
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Pocket Pussy
 25
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bandolier
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Windy corner
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Receiver
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Centerfire
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bare Metal Teen
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Big Money Grip
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Torrent Falls »

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Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
As of 11/24/06, Torrent is sadly closed to the general public. The landowner and his family decided they were tired of climbers failing to follow his rules, and made the decision to close access to the crag. Dec 3, 2006
You may still climb at Torrent if you stay at the bed and breakfast that is there. Feb 9, 2007
mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
Limited access to Torrent Falls is possible by permit only. Visit this website for the latest information: torrentfallsclimbing.com/ Dec 1, 2009
RockinOut
NY, NY
RockinOut   NY, NY
The B&B does not control the climbing at torrent falls. We stopped in at the B&B and they were quite annoyed that this misinformation was on the internet and in the guidebook. The property belongs to someone else and a permit, which can be reserved online, can be found at the posted website above.

The Admin may want to edit the main RRG page Mar 2, 2011
If you rent a cabin through Red River Outdoors you are allowed to climb here for the day.

redriveroutdoors.com/ Oct 30, 2011

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