Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 50.749, -116.781 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 663,869 total · 3,967/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

Description

The Bugaboo Provincial Park is one of the greatest alpine playgrounds in North America, and the world for that matter. Imagine large granite spires of all shapes and sizes surrounded by beautiful glaciers and mountains as far as the eye can see and that's the Bugaboos. All the rock is alpine granite and the quality on most routes is superb, even those which are not considered classics. Routes range from a few hundred feet tall to a few thousand and offer anything from ridge scrambles and moderate free climbs to hard test pieces and multi-day big walls.

The climbing season is generally June to September with July and August having the best chance of good weather. But be prepared for any kind of weather, it can storm at anytime and it snows every month of the year. Temperatures can vary greatly depending on what side of a spire you're climbing on (North, South, East, West), if the sun's out or not, or if it's windy so plan accordingly. An ice axe and crampons are mandatory to be safe especially later in the season when the glaciers can become a little more troublesome to negotiate due to melting. Glacier travel skills are recommended for getting to and from most climbs unless you're staying near the campground.

There are several options for staying in the park when your visiting. The most comfortable but also the most expensive is the Conrad Kain Hut which is managed by the Alpine Club of Canada and will cost you $25 a night (Canadian) per person as of 2013. But provides you with a warm dry place to hang out in foul weather, a kitchen with running water and lights for late night reading. Other more cost effective options are the campgrounds, with the Applebee campground being the most popular by far. It will cost you $10 (Canadian) a night per person (pay at the Kain hut) and is basically a large area of somewhat flat rocks to place your tent on. It does offer you a toilet, racks for hanging gear and food and great views which make the price seem more reasonable.

Getting There

The Bugaboo Provincial Park is located in the Purcell range of British Columbia, off of Highway 95. To get to the Bugaboos travel 17 miles north of Radium Hotsprings or 48 miles south of Golden on Highway 95 depending on where your coming from to the really small town of Brisco. Head west on a dirt road that has a sign for the park and goes past a lumber mill. Follow the dirt road over the Columbia River and up into the mountains for 28.5 miles. There are several turn offs along the road but there are signs at most of them for the Bugaboos otherwise just stay on the main road.

Once at the parking area there should be enough chicken wire, wood posts and rocks to protect your vehicle from rubber eating porcupines. You'll see what I mean when you get there, don't take a chance. The trailhead is at the west end of the parking lot and the next 3 miles to the Conrad Kain Hut are steep so pace yourself. It's about .5 miles from the hut to the Applebee campground up more steep trail. The new guide book "The Bugaboos" written by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche has all the info you need for a great trip.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bugaboos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3 A0
 24
Toilet Seat
Aid, Boulder, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 253
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 115
Kain Route (South Ridge)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Lion's Way
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
Ears Between
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 210
North East Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/W…
Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Surfs Up
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 161
McTech Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Paddle Flake Direct
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 173
Beckey-Chouinard
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Roof McTech
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Sunshine Crack
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Solitary Confinement
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Energy Crisis
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toilet Seat Pigeon Spire
 24
V-easy 3 A0 Aid, Boulder, Alpine
West Ridge Pigeon Spire
 253
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Kain Route (South Ridge) Bugaboo Spire
 115
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Lion's Way Crescent Towers
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Ears Between Crescent Towers
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
North East Ridge Bugaboo Spire
 210
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Cor… Snowpatch Spire
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
Surfs Up Snowpatch Spire
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
McTech Arete Crescent Spire
 161
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Paddle Flake Direct Crescent Spire
 42
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Beckey-Chouinard Howser Towers > S Howser Tower
 173
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Roof McTech Crescent Spire
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Sunshine Crack Snowpatch Spire
 78
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Solitary Confinement Pigeon Feathers
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Energy Crisis Crescent Spire
 17
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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