PRINT: Rock Climbing in Star Wall, Smith Rock

(4) Star Wall

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

The full-height left side of this wall is home to some of the most classic difficult cracks in the gorge, including the classics Dark Star (5.11d/12a), Neutron Star (5.12a), and Morning Star (5.10c).

Getting There

This is the next wall upstream from the Catwalk cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Tim Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 3 ● Freon Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 16 ● Daytime Drama Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 58 ● Morning Star Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Morning Star Extension Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R 8 ● Jonny and the Melonheads Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 16 ● Neutron Star Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 18 ● Dark Star Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● Cry of the Gerbil Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 40 ● Mantra Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Mantra Extension Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 2 ● Lethal Dose Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● St. Paddee's Day Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Turning Point Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Levitate Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 30 ● Last Days Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Left Wing Trad, Sport