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Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cock Tart S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Elevation: 3,643 ft
GPS: 37.723, -119.703 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,338 total, 61/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This is a nice little cragging cliff that gets shade and is home to a few easier (5.9 - 5.10) climbs of one to three pitches in length. The namesake climb is the classic -- a crazy wide crack and knob climbing affair.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Drive out of the park on 140 and park at the pulloff near the old generator plant. Walk up the road two hundred feet or so and pick up an excellent trail that leads up to the cliff. Hiking time is about 10 minutes.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 19 - New Diversions

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Pie
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Deviations
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Diversions
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake, Rattle, and Drop
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Cock Tart
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Burst of Brilliance
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chicken Pie 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
New Deviations 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
New Diversions 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Shake, Rattle, and Drop 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cock Tart 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Burst of Brilliance 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
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Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

Immediately right of Chicken Pie is a new bolted route which starts by scrambling 20ft up Chicken Pie before clipping the first bolt and moving out onto the face. I think near the top this route traverses back to rejoin Chicken Pie. It is about 5.10c and very well protected. Don't know the name or FA'ist.

To the right of that is Catch A Wave (5.11d, FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1986) which has a thin and hard lower section with a traverse right before reaching bigger knobs. Bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2006. Mar 30, 2013
Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance Oct 1, 2012
Just to make sure there is no confusion. This cliff is inside the park. I think what was meant to be written was that you drive out of the Valley on HWY 140 and into the Merced River Canyon AKA-down canyon. Park as for the Generator and Conductor Cracks. Jan 29, 2010

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