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1. Schultz's Ridge

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picnic Area…
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Description

Shultz's Ridge is a great cragging area and home to the classic Moratorium (11b).

Getting There

There are two dirt pullouts on the left side of the road just under two miles west of Camp 4. Park at the first one for the Moratorium, and the second one for most other routes. Cross the street and follow generally good trails through the woods to the wall. The Moratorium approach is steeper and longer than guidebooks make it out to be (allow 15-25 minutes of hiking time).

Routes from Left to Right

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
● Caught at the Lip
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Gidget Goes to Yosemite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
● Crystalline Passage
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 10
● Bikini Beach Party
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
● Hooter Alert
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
● Proud Snapper
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 25
● Demon's Delight
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
● Warm Up Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
● New Suede Shoes
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
● Second Thoughts
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
● Just Do Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
● Are You Hard Enough?
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
● Dreams of Thailand
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
● Superstem
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
● Mark of the Beast
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 198
● The Moratorium
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 5
● Burden of Dreams
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Caught at the Lip
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● Gidget Goes to Yosemite
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Crystalline Passage
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Bikini Beach Party
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
● Hooter Alert
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Proud Snapper
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Demon's Delight
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
● Warm Up Crack
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● New Suede Shoes
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Second Thoughts
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Just Do Me
 25
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Are You Hard Enough?
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Dreams of Thailand
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Superstem
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Mark of the Beast
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 6 pitches
● The Moratorium
 198
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
● Burden of Dreams
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

3rd pitch crux.. underclinging tips crack
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch crux.. underclinging tips crack
The wild 2nd pitch stemming corner
[Hide Photo] The wild 2nd pitch stemming corner
The small boulder where you start up the well-cairned trail to the base.
[Hide Photo] The small boulder where you start up the well-cairned trail to the base.
Condition of what used to be the Endless Summer Wall area as of Sept 2021. Talus field appeared to be very loose and dangerous.
[Hide Photo] Condition of what used to be the Endless Summer Wall area as of Sept 2021. Talus field appeared to be very loose and dangerous.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Johnny Y
California
[Hide Comment] For Dan and Jerry's Playground approach, Supertopo says park at the 2nd and smaller of the two dirt pullouts, we did and ended up going up some drainage across the road (probably for Endless Summer Wall) and went too high. On the way back we followed the trail down from Just Do Me and popped out at the PAVED pullout just ~20m before our small dirt pullout.

The paved pullout is shy of 1.8 miles west of Camp 4 and the faint trailhead starts on the east end of the pullout close to a water pipe. Great area to go for a rest day. Apr 25, 2013
Erik Sloan
Yosemite, CA
[Hide Comment] This area was heavily impacted by falling rocks during 2017. Probably best to not climb here for a while, or if you do, please post up if you find that climbs have changed or have been damaged.
Woot!
Erik
RockClimbYosemite.com Jan 12, 2018
Nico Wright
Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] Went up to scope out the Endless Summer Wall area this weekend. Entered off of the Zodiac trail and took a photo (posted to this page) of what I assume was that area, which appears completely decimated. The talus field below is terrifyingly loose and unconsolidated. Sep 27, 2021
Brandon R
CA
[Hide Comment] The Dan and Jerry's area (Hooter Alert down to Superstem) seems to be unaffected from the rockfall mentioned above. The best approach is to walk directly to the toe of the ridge where Superstem is, then contour along the base. May 7, 2022