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Routes in Across From Cenotaph

Black Groove T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Side T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 8,150 ft
GPS: 39.976, -105.46 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,954 total, 29/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Okay, I'm gonna post this crag...mostly due to curiosity. I've asked around and no one that I've mentioned this crag to knows much about it. I went there with Dow Jopp, but he's in NC or somewhere (then AK, now MD). Now, it comes from notes from 1996, and the memories are blurred, but with this reorganization bit on BC, I've come across this curiosity again. So, if you know this crag, let me know.

Lying across Boulder Creek from Cenotaph, this small, slabby crag catches your eye when climbing at Cenotaph. It already had bolts, so it was known 10 years ago. It has at least 4 routes on it.

Lower, partly blasted rock (by the aqueduct):

A1. Bolted line, 11+/12-, 1p, bolts.
A2. Right-facing dihedral, 10a, 1p.

Above the aqueduct:

A. Blasted, 10+.

Across From Cenotaph:
A. Obscurity, 8, 3p.
B. Unknown Groove, 10, 1p, 130'?, gear or TR.
C. Black Groove, 9, 1p, 110'?, gear or TR.
D. Right Side, 8+, 1p, 130'?, gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Drive up to Cenotaph Crag, past Castle Rock. Park. Wade the creek. Wander up to the slab. 15 minutes for tortoises like me.

Per George Bracksieck: from Sky Cafe, I noticed that you could contour eastward for maybe 100 meters to "Across from Cenotaph."

3 Total Climbs

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Last time I was up at Sky Cafe (~ year and a half ago), I noticed that you could contour/bushwhack eastward for maybe 100 meters to "Across from Cenotaph." I think approaching through the Sport Park to Sky Cafe or Stone Cafe could be the best way to reach AfC, with less bushwhacking and less elevation gain. Nov 1, 2013
On July 23, 2011, I led my wife, Jeana, up the left side of this rock. We climbed a line that defines the left side of the blank slabs. Beginning a few feet left of a dirty trough, I climbed over a boulder and up a flake/trough/crack system, eventually heading diagonally right along a seam/crack to a small tree in the slab (5.6+). The next pitch continued diagonally right, then went up to a big overhang. I climbed over it by a tree, cranking up into the bottom of a short, right-facing dihedral (5.8). A short, easy pitch reaches the top. If I were to name it, I would call it "Weekend Obscurity." We walked down along the west side.

We approached from Castle Rock, walking along the aqueduct, a long way past Mtn Rose and Frisky. Eventually we came to a partly blasted rock that faces north and west. You can hike uphill, along the west side of this rock, to "Across from Cenotaph." This approach may be longer, yet it presents little bushwhacking.

BTW, in summer 2010, Mike Endicott and I climbed three routes on this lower, partly blasted rock, which sits beside the aqueduct. From the base of the unknown, bolted route on its far right, I led up to the first bolt, then moved diagonally left along a ramp and up into a out-facing, 90-degree dihedral, through which I followed a crack trending right, around a roof or two, to the top. Call it "Simi-taph" (10a?). We set up a TR on said bolted route (five or six bolts, plus chainless two-bolt anchor, all with brown-painted hangers, following a steep, thin zig-zag crack). I think the bolted route is 11d or 12a. Directly above the aqueduct, on the left side of the rock, Mike led up to the right side of a square-cut overhang (where a four-foot horizontal crack intersects a one-foot vertical crack), continuing up and right (10d+). It required lots hard cranks on loose rock and is NOT recommended. I would call it "Blasted," because that's what you'd have to be to want to climb it, and that's what you could get if you do climb it. Mar 3, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Dow, good to see you on the site. Welcome back from the Great White Melting North. Pictures would be great! I can't find any. Mar 23, 2007
Dow Jopp
Greensboro, MD
Dow Jopp   Greensboro, MD
Not NC, was AK...but now MD. Had to stop a moment to remember to jog the brain, was crusty too wasn't it? Not sure, but I might have some picures somewhere, will try to find and scan them. Mar 23, 2007

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