PRINT: Rock Climbing in Sunshine Wall, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Sunshine Wall

Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

This low-angle broken wall opposite the Leaning Tower. Excellent for learning the finer points of slab climbing.
Routes from 5-easy to 5.10d make this a good winter wall to warm up on. No anchors for any of the climbs.

Getting There

Hike to Lichen Wall and scramble up the east side of the Canyon to find a few nice routes. Rarely climbed.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● Foot Pop Samurai Stop Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Setting Sun Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 3 ● Cool Dude TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 3 ● Shuttle Booster Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● O-Ring Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X 4 ● Rocket Sled Trad, TR

● Foot Pop Samurai Stop

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR

● Setting Sun

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

● Cool Dude

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR

● Shuttle Booster

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR

● O-Ring

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Rocket Sled

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X Trad, TR

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Sunshine Wall, protection can be sparse, but the rock is top notch.

excellent pro on this route, nothing to fear