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Wizard Wall

Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description

Just a few good routes up this sweet formation.

Getting There

Upon entering the narrows and crossing the river, turn left and head up stream to the bend. Short slab climb gets you to the base.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● 3381 Broken Corner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 1
● 3382 Left Amp
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
 1
● Brother Gunk (Heaven Can Wait)
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
● The Wizard
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Boschanova
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
● Asleep at the Wheel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● 3381 Broken Corner
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● 3382 Left Amp
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
● Brother Gunk (Heaven Can Wait)
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, TR
● The Wizard
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
● Boschanova
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Asleep at the Wheel
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wizard Wall
[Hide Photo] Wizard Wall
The Wizard and Brother Gunk (Heaven Can Wait) shown side by side. Brother Gunk is essential Wizard Direct. Both are tremendous lines with great moves.
[Hide Photo] The Wizard and Brother Gunk (Heaven Can Wait) shown side by side. Brother Gunk is essential Wizard Direct. Both are tremendous lines with great moves.
This wedge boulder has BD4321 anchor opportunity to lower into the bolted anchors of the Wizard. Follow the left facing corner ramp and then move 10' rappelers' left to drop in on the chains. There is a lower BD321 in the corner but is less useful.
[Hide Photo] This wedge boulder has BD4321 anchor opportunity to lower into the bolted anchors of the Wizard. Follow the left facing corner ramp and then move 10' rappelers' left to drop in on the chains. There…
Detail of wedge Topside access anchor opportunity for Brother Gunk and The Wizard. BD5-1 and then a redirect BD1-3 helps a little but isn't necessary. Chains visible.
[Hide Photo] Detail of wedge Topside access anchor opportunity for Brother Gunk and The Wizard. BD5-1 and then a redirect BD1-3 helps a little but isn't necessary. Chains visible.
Wizard Wall from Middle Zoo Wall.
[Hide Photo] Wizard Wall from Middle Zoo Wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Tower
San Francisco
[Hide Comment] Asleep at the Wheel is not anywhere near the wizard as Childre points out. Just don't go looking for it over there. It is across the stream from Aerial Anticipation. Jul 4, 2007