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Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Oklahoma
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description

Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.

No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.

Getting There

15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.

Guidebook

The latest guidebook to hit our state is Refuge Bouldering: Bouldering in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge by Ryan Sheldon. Released Jan 2021. Available at local gyms, or buy online at Sharp End Books to get the digital copy as well.


For all roped climbs in the Refuge and Quartz (as well as select Quartz boulders), see Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books. It only covers the WMWR and Quartz, but it does so very well. Most routes, as well as select bouldering, are covered in the guide.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A male collard lizard getting some morning sun
[Hide Photo] A male collard lizard getting some morning sun
Climbers on Echo Dome, Charon's Gardens
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Echo Dome, Charon's Gardens
Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area<br>
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Photo: Ryan Ray
[Hide Photo] Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area Photo: Ryan Ray
The Rail after the layers of cruxes is a moment to gather one's self and smile. Prep for the top. Photography by Andrew Burr, Climber is Elisha Gallegos
[Hide Photo] The Rail after the layers of cruxes is a moment to gather one's self and smile. Prep for the top. Photography by Andrew Burr, Climber is Elisha Gallegos
Charon Gardens, Wichita Mountains Wildlife refuge. Crab Eyes.
[Hide Photo] Charon Gardens, Wichita Mountains Wildlife refuge. Crab Eyes.
Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows.  Matt onsites the sucker.
[Hide Photo] Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows. Matt onsites the sucker.
The Mount Scott crags (also taken from Lake Lawtonka East Campground).<br>
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Upper Mount Scott (blue marker)<br>
Romper Room (red marker)<br>
Lower Mount Scott (yellow marker)
[Hide Photo] The Mount Scott crags (also taken from Lake Lawtonka East Campground). Upper Mount Scott (blue marker) Romper Room (red marker) Lower Mount Scott (yellow marker)
OU Mountaineers. Top to bottom, L to R: Marc Johnson, Randy Hankins, Rick Williams, Martha Alcock, unknown, Randy Van Hoy, Sue Miller, unknown, Kathy Van Hoy, Randy's sister, and unknowns
[Hide Photo] OU Mountaineers. Top to bottom, L to R: Marc Johnson, Randy Hankins, Rick Williams, Martha Alcock, unknown, Randy Van Hoy, Sue Miller, unknown, Kathy Van Hoy, Randy's sister, and unknowns
Russell Hooper on Rap Bolters from Hell.
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Photo: Trisha Ray
[Hide Photo] Russell Hooper on Rap Bolters from Hell. Photo: Trisha Ray
This is a photo of Adam Peter's coldest day of climbing ever.  It was below freezing with a strong north wind...and a little snow coming down here and there.  See his comment.  Women on Mopeds on the west face of Crab Eyes, WMWR, OK.
[Hide Photo] This is a photo of Adam Peter's coldest day of climbing ever. It was below freezing with a strong north wind...and a little snow coming down here and there. See his comment. Women on Mopeds on t…
Hunting Horse Hill, Mount Wall, and Mount Sheridan seen just before dusk from Mount Scott. 05/04/2019. Photo: Drew Nevius
[Hide Photo] Hunting Horse Hill, Mount Wall, and Mount Sheridan seen just before dusk from Mount Scott. 05/04/2019. Photo: Drew Nevius
Definitely a year round destination! We had a great day of winter scrambling all over the Refuge one snowy day in March 2009.
[Hide Photo] Definitely a year round destination! We had a great day of winter scrambling all over the Refuge one snowy day in March 2009.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve DiMarino
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] A few things you should keep in mind when planning a trip to the refuge:

It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)

Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.

There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.

There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.

Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide
This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers.
Enjoy, but be prepared. May 31, 2010
[Hide Comment] I've never had to bring 20'of webbing to set up anything. Cams, cordellete, maybe a couple slings if you're toproping stuff.

Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.

Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.

A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few.. Mar 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] Ha! Get 'em Tony. Thanks for a great book. Make the trip from Tulsa several times a year. It's like heaven down there. A lifetime of beautiful climbs. May 16, 2011
Ryan Sheldon
Oklahoma City, OK
[Hide Comment] oklahomabouldering.blogspot.com Feb 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] Also, when the guide book or the mtn project site says trad,sport rather than just sport, does that mean its a mix and I will have to have a trad rack? Sep 22, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] Trad Sport - you are correct. Typically these routes have a few bolts along with some gear placements. On rare occasions the gear isn't necessary, like the #2 cam that can be placed on 'Come and Get Your Love' over at Lost Dome. More often you will find a situation like on Dr. Coolhead, where that first placement is imperative, and even with it, if you blow that clip at that first bolt you'll most likely deck. Coolhead is one of the bolder lead IMHO. Sep 22, 2015
Tristan Bradford
Boulder, CO
mike varlotta
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
[Hide Comment] I am going to be climbing in the middle swath of the country this summer and am looking forward to spending time in the WWR. I have never been there before. I know that mid june through july is not ideal for that region, but it is when i have the time off and so i will make due. I am hoping that there will be enough shade that it will not be unbearable. Can somebody give me some beta as to what to expect at that time temperature wise. I would also welcome any beta as to best place to camp and areas most suitable for July climbing. Jan 12, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] Camp Doris is great central spot to stay, but is family oriented, so no booze, which goes for the whole refuge.

When it's hot. Narrows, you can chase the shade all day. I like to start at Lichen Wall, mid day have a siesta soaking feet in the river, and usually end at Zoo Wall or the Tower.

Longer hike out but you can find shade all day either side of Crab Eyes.

Mount Scott is another gem, most of the upper gets blazed, Romper Room sees no sun all day. Both upper and lower get shade late. Jan 12, 2017
mike varlotta
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
[Hide Comment] Craig,
Thanks for quick reply. So is your experience that with a little bit of planning and good strategy there is great climbing to be enjoyed even in July? I would be very siked if this were the case! I will we driving down from Michigan, through Illinois and Missouri and then possibly into Texas in search of areas that are climbable in July. I would love any additional beta. Jan 12, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] The heat is pretty brutal, but certainly you'll find plenty of shady spots to keep you busy.

Texas? You could go down to Austin, and Enchanted Rock... same swampy heat with lesser quality rock.

Now over around El Paso, Hueco Tanks... it's everything you've heard, but that's a mega long trip you need reservations for... consider 2 hours closer, around Carlsbad NM, You could hit what I consider the ultimate summer oasis with free camping... Sitting Bull Falls! Shade all day, swimming hole to cool off, and world class limestone. Do know, the warm up routes are all 10's, and this place truly shines in the 12's.

8 miles up the canyon from Sitting Bull, is Last Chance. Another crag where you can climb in the shade all day long no matter the grade you climb. Best practice during the summer is to hike in late morning to early afternoon, climb till sun goes down, simply to avoid getting blazed by the sun on the short but brutal hike out. Jan 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] Hi all, does anyone have beta you could share with me about best places to stay here? Looking for camping and/or airbnb or vrbo options. We'll be here in late March for a week to climb. Thanks in advance for any info! Jan 26, 2018
Chase Webb
Fayetteville, AR
[Hide Comment] Katie, I haven't ever stayed in one myself, but I believe Medicine Park has some cabins for rent. You could also stay at the lodge near Quartz Mountain and have quick access to Quartz.

Russell, it sounds like Mount Scott will be your best bet. Lower Scott has a a couple of sport routes and moderate trad, while Upper Scott is almost all moderate trad. Both have super short approaches and quality climbs. Mar 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] Been climbing out here for 20 years...it's where I started out. Couple of things...

1) stop in the Nature Center, at least pick up a new sticker or purchase something really cool to support the refuge!
2) Tony's new guidebook is amazing! Tony, thank you for your hard work. Your last book was put to good use, and was sad to retire it yesterday. But your new one is too awesome! Also pick it up and continue to support...
3) i picked up more litter than usual...chances are, if your reading these comments, your a climber and not just a visitor. So I know your not littering. I encourage everyone to play a small role and pick up any trash you see. Apr 1, 2018
Matthew Viviano
Frisco, TX
[Hide Comment] I have a book way back from about 1990 called Oklahoma on the Rocks II. Does anyone know of this is a sought after book like The Dome Drivers Manual? I’ve done a search but nothing comes up. Jun 7, 2019
Ryan Sheldon
Oklahoma City, OK
[Hide Comment] If you're interested in bouldering development in the area you can keep up to date at RefugeBouldering.com, or by following Refuge Bouldering on Facebook. Jan 27, 2020
Sean McCarrey
Austin Texas
[Hide Comment] I’ve noticed that routes in the Oklahoma Rock 2018 guidebook are very different from what’s described here on Mountain Project. For instance Tra Hex is a 70 ft single pitch in the book and a 200+ 4 pitch on here. Does anyone know what’s going on with that? Thanks! Aug 15, 2021
Grahm Hornsby
Norman, OK
[Hide Comment] Hey Sean! Happy one year anniversary of you asking this question.

Guidebooks often make mistakes but I can shed a little light on Tra Hex. After cross referencing about 10 different guides, there seems to be three common lines that this route takes. Which makes sense as nature of the rock here provides the climber with many low grade options after the first pitch. The original guide for the area matches what you see here on MP. However only the first pitch is 5.6, the rest is loose, runout, low 5th class or less. This makes me believe that Tony thought that only including the first pitch would make the most sense.

The best way to climb Tra Hex in my opinion is to climb the first pitch and lower off the fixed hardware, or continue relatively straight up to a bolt then top out left. This will allow you to climb two 5.6 pitches that are relatively clean and direct. Aug 15, 2022