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Big Horn Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Big Horn Wall
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Broken Arrows S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Counting Coup S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Custer's Last Stand S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ghost Dancers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost Dancers Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kootenai Cruiser S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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On the Prowl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smoke Signals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tribal War S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| GPS: |
32.2452, -104.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 20,077 total · 94/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Sep 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
The Big Horn Wall is the main attraction at Sitting Bull Falls, featuring some of New Mexico's most difficult routes on the highest quality limestone in the state. This area is occasionally heralded as the best sport climbing crag in the state, despite the limited selection of lines. But what this crag lacks in quantity, it compensates for in quality. Every line on the wall would be a 4 star route at any other crag in New Mexico.
Generally speaking, routes here are steep jug hauls, with long moves between large holds and "active" rests that add up to a building pump that tends to culminate in a mad-dash for the anchor and a desperate clip. Unfortunately the easier lines are getting polished, but as more of the locals are diverted to Last Chance Canyon, this problem likely will not get much worse.
The crag faces north and receives virtually no sun. Heat-tolerant folks will be able to climb here on all but the warmest days, while those in search of 'redpoint conditions' should plan to visit in winter.
Bees are occasionally found on this wall as well, although there are no known hives on this wall.
Generally speaking, routes here are steep jug hauls, with long moves between large holds and "active" rests that add up to a building pump that tends to culminate in a mad-dash for the anchor and a desperate clip. Unfortunately the easier lines are getting polished, but as more of the locals are diverted to Last Chance Canyon, this problem likely will not get much worse.
The crag faces north and receives virtually no sun. Heat-tolerant folks will be able to climb here on all but the warmest days, while those in search of 'redpoint conditions' should plan to visit in winter.
Bees are occasionally found on this wall as well, although there are no known hives on this wall.
Getting There
This wall is visible from the Sitting Bull Falls State Park parking lot, however, the wall is further away than it appears, and the approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.
From the pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. After 20 yds the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall will be visible. There are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff, one is 4th class, the other 2nd.
To reach the Big Horn Wall, climb down to the Rose Bud Wall, and traverse the base westwardly to the Bighorn Wall. The two walls are very close to each other.
From the pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. After 20 yds the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall will be visible. There are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff, one is 4th class, the other 2nd.
To reach the Big Horn Wall, climb down to the Rose Bud Wall, and traverse the base westwardly to the Bighorn Wall. The two walls are very close to each other.
Classic Climbing Routes at Big Horn Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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