Elevation: 5,766 ft
GPS: 38.171, -109.597 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,935 total · 309/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Aug 29, 2006 with improvements by Gabe O'Leary
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This is the wall across from Cliffs of Insanity, and has a huge kink in the wall that makes part of it face south for about 80 yards. There is a big right-arching crack visible from the approach. It seems a lot of the routes are new considering the book shows about 7. I'd say there are about 25 and most are 5.10s and 5.11s and one 13 ...(by Didier?)

Getting There

Take the gate directly across from the Super Bowl camp, then the first left turn, then right turn after a dip in a dried stream. There is a trail from the old mine at the end of this road heading down and right. The mine is way cool to check out. Next time I would just head straight back on the main dirt road inside the gate, and then just turn left into the dried large wash and drive until the lower-angle gully is in sight and hike the weakness up to the wall where the wall (left to right) takes a left turn out for 80 yards and then turns left for the rest of the way. Most of the routes are in the corner area and all have plaques.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE The Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE The Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Dirty Girl
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Freebird
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
The Trial
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 105
Comfortably Numb
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 153
Run Like Hell
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Money
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Brain Damage
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
Wish You Were Here
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
The Great Gig in the Sky
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 72
Sorrow
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 95
Pigs On The Wing
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Dancing Queen
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 48
Goodbye Cruel World
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
The Judge
Trad
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 9
Learning to Fly
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirty Girl
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Freebird
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Trial
 41
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Comfortably Numb
 105
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Run Like Hell
 153
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Money
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Brain Damage
 40
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Wish You Were Here
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Great Gig in the Sky
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Sorrow
 72
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Pigs On The Wing
 95
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dancing Queen
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Goodbye Cruel World
 48
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
The Judge
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Learning to Fly
 9
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE The Wall »

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Photos

Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
This wall faces mostly west/southwest. However, there are about 4 routes that are bit more south facing. In my opinion I think this wall has some of the best views in the creek. You have great views of the six shooters, canyon lands and the submarine. Apr 2, 2009
mandyf
grand junction, co
mandyf   grand junction, co
can you get into this wall with a car, or do you need a high clearance vehicle? Mar 16, 2010
slim    
you could get there with a subaru or similar fairly easy. anything lower would be tough, but doable if you were pretty good at guerilla 4WD. unless you are talking a 64 impala w/ 16" spinners, or something like that... Mar 16, 2010
Not recommended. Huge approach, sandy climbs, and mainly weird sizes. Save your energy and go somewhere else... Oct 9, 2010
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this wall is recommended for the real creek outing.. long approach. great views. solid grades . i think this zone rules big time. Feb 4, 2011
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Wow if this is a huge approach I wonder what a short approach is (Potash Road?). Sandy climbs? umm no this is Indian Creek most climbs are very clean. Highly recommended despite the approach! Jan 31, 2012
Lost a grigri up here on 4/9! If found my number is 515-556-5115 Text me if you have found it and are a kind person! Apr 15, 2017
Nate Sydnor   Moab
From Jason Byrd. BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner:

Some updated information on spring/summer 2019 raptor nesting and climbing avoidance areas for IC:

"We just issued a news release and map of the active rapture nesting areas in the Indian Creek Corridor. Here is the web address to the News Release (blm.gov/press-release/annou…). The ?map? is attached to the news release the link is on the right hand side.

Background Information: compliance not to climb in these areas is voluntary and and strongly encouraged, as human disturbance can affect nesting success, however the routes are not legally closed. This requires additional environmental reviews and public notification through the Federal Register, which takes some time. Because of this, we are referring to these routes as "climbing avoidance areas" rather than closures. The entire climbing community is generally very supportive and helpful in these raptor protection efforts, and we hope these voluntary efforts will help keep these locations open outside of the nesting season for your enjoyment.

Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival. Here is a link to the news release and map of the affected areas (add link here). Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.

Please let me know if you have any questions- Thanks!

Jason Byrd
BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner
Monticello, UT 84535
435-587-1534
jbyrd@blm.gov Feb 21, 2019