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Routes in North Wall

The Bush League S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Graspin' for Straw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magic Carpet Ride) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radical Sabbatical S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test") S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uckfay Ushbay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 9,200 ft
GPS: 39.408, -106.657 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,037 total · 72/month
Shared By: Nate Adams on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The North Wall stays shaded all day, which makes it the perfect escape from the summer heat. Routes range from 5.10b to 5.Hard, but most climbers will be drawn to the large number of excellent 5.11- climbs. The wall is surrounded by large pine trees, making this a nice cool setting. The rock here is generally quite good, with clean vertical panels of gray, Rifle-esque limestone.

Getting There

Two roads access the canyon, one on each side of the creek. For the North Wall, follow the West road, which deadends just below The Prow. From the last pullout before the end of the road, follow a good trail west towards the Prow, across an improvised footbridge that crosses the west fork of the creek. The trail forks just under the Prow. Take the left fork to access the Prow routes; the right fork leads you to the North Wall.

Routes

L=>R:

A. Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test"), 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Blood, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
C. Sweat, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Tears, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Graspin' for Straw, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Pineapple Thunderpuss, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. UckFay UshBay, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
H. The Bush League, 12-, 1p, 75', bolts.
I. Unnamed, looks 12+/13.
J. Radical Sabbatical, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uckfay Ushbay
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Uckfay Ushbay 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Photos

As of Sept. 2010, there is a new route to the left of Rafting with Rednecks. It felt 5.9ish, although VERY dirty and large, hollow flake about half way up - belayer be heads up. Sep 10, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
There is a new route to the left of Blood. Sep 3, 2007

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