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One of the best sections of climbing at Wild Iris.
This crag is taller than many of the Wild Iris walls, and generally splits into two tiers. The lower tier is vertical to slightly overhanging, and is roughly 60 to 70 feet tall. Then the second tier is a big steep bulge that extends another 20 feet or so above.
Routes have been put in here in a generally smart way, with anchors at the top of the first tier, and then route extensions to the top of the second tier. So there are plenty of easier options that go 5.10 or 5.11 up to the first anchors and then offer 5.12 and 5.13 extensions to the top.
A few classics include Cowboy Poetry (11b to the first anchor or 12b to the second), Take your Hat Off (10b), and its hard extension Boy (13a).
Gets lots and lots of sun, pretty much all day.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● The Devil Wears Latex |
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Even Cowgirls Get the Blues |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Testosterone Alfresco |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Sleeping Thunder |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Cowboy Gibberish |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Cowboy Poetry |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Take Your Hat Off |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Buffalo Soldier |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Charlie Drew that Spin'n Bull |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Cowboys Don't Shoot Straight |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Ambush in the Night |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Princess and the Playmate |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Slapping Leather |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Honed on the Range |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
● SideWinder |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport | ||
● How The West Was Won |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Ella's Pony Ride |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport | ||
● Burnin' Daylight |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | ||
● Drove Hard and Put Up Quick |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
● Alaskan Tanning Booth |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport |
Morrison, CO
Colorado
I know a guy who is doing some retro-bolt work at the Iris, but he is a long time local with generous consensus amongst the community. I guess it might be possible that this was a retrobolted route that someone else took issue with and then chopped.
Cowardly indeed. Oct 25, 2009
Morrison, CO
Whitefish, MT
Say what you will about Alf but the author of the said guidebook was completely in the wrong.
Hopefully these routes will be retrobolted in the future. Sep 11, 2014
Seattle, WA
I was surprised to see the closures only affecting 4 or so routes at the wall when anyone climbing at the cliff would clearly disturb the falcon. Other climbing areas close entire cliffs for the whole season just because there *may* be nesting raptors in the area, but this closure only affects four routes for one month when there is an active yearly nesting site right in the middle of the wall??? WTF? May 19, 2021