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Routes in Trundler's Club Buttress

Pussy Mind Trick T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trundler's Club T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 5,092 ft
GPS: 34.832, -111.757 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,700 total, 41/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The Trundler's Club Buttress is a Gothic looking complex of stone, which is dominated by large systems, and steep head walls. Two routes punch up this airy, and intimidating 350' chunk of stone:

Trundler's Club 5.10+, 5 Pitches- Is by far the easier of the two, and if you feel solid on 5.11 trad, you are sure to enjoy the middle three pitches, and especially pitch 4 which is super exposed, and a tad heady. The final summit ledge puts you hundreds of feet above Chicken Point.

PMT 5.11+/.12-, 3 or 4 Pitches- This is a wonderful outing if you can get past the first pitch... A full pitch of very technical face climbing guards two very wild crack pitches.

You will most likely not encounter any other climbers here, however, the buttress does overlook Chicken Point which is a destination for Jeep Tours and moderate hikers. The tours below can be a bit annoying or entertaining...depending on the day. But, be prepared to be part of someones Jeep Tour experience, as the guides will often point out climbers. If you can keep quiet and avoid detection, it is in your best interest as once noticed, they may sit, and watch you for a long time. Week days are, of course, lower traffic days. If you are there on a slow day, however, consider yourself lucky and enjoy the peace.

Getting There

Follow directions for the Religion wall past the watchtower. Stick close to the wall and you will encounter some fixed approach lines. Climb up to the limestone band and follow it around to the east between Minister and the Pulpit and the main wall. Once through the notch stick to the main wall and look for faint trail. A hairy move on the limestone band and some scrambling will put you at the base. Approach time- 45 min... It's pumpy.

Or the alternative start is from Chicken Point.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trundler's Club Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trundler's Club
Trad 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pussy Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trundler's Club 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Pussy Mind Trick 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
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Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Approach is pretty easy from chicken point. Vehicle permitting, drive the broken arrow trail to chicken point and park. Park away from where the pink jeeps congregate. A trail roughly leads towards trundlers club buttress. Takes maybe 15-20min. Apr 28, 2013
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
The direct (or less direct, depending on how you look at it) approach from chicken point is also a pretty good way to go. Definitely more dog friendly if that is a concern - plus you get to scope out your line from a distance. Feb 5, 2011
Our rope got stuck on the rappel this past weekend, so after years of using this site and climbing in Sedona, I finally have good reason to leave a comment. BTW tremendous thanks to the first ascensionist for putting up a fun, safe (for Sedona) route. It is hard work that is much appreciated. The rappel: Call it luck, but in 35 years of combined climbing, my partner and I had never gotten a rope stuck. Ours got stuck in the rope eating fist crack 2nd pitch of PMT, after tossing it off from the Triangle of Love ledge. Once we dealt with that, it almost got stuck again when we were pulling the rope in the same crack system. Partial solution, stand way out on triangle of love ledge to throw your rope off keeping it out of the crack system. Still there's no way around pulling it through the rope eater crack, so bring a knife. And once enough cut pieces of rope build up in that crack system, it will run smooth like butter. Mar 30, 2009
Yeah...the descent route has proved to be troublesome at times.... John Burcham said he had scoped a more direct descent/rappel line that we had always intended on establishing.... But don't let the possibility of a stuck rope deter you from these routes!!! Nov 17, 2006

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