Elevation: 1,557 ft
GPS: 49.695, -123.122 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,860 total · 231/month
Shared By: Ian Wolfe on Jul 25, 2006 with updates from FosterK
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Slhanay has a selection of excellent climbs, which, combined with its reletive seclusion and shady aspect, make this a great place to go on hot summer days. All climbs on the Slhanay are fairly difficult, with nothing below the 10a rating. Great views of the town and of the North Gully of the Chief can be had from the wall, and much of the leftern reaches have yet to be explored.

The descent is down the right side of the formation on a somewhat obscure trail. Follow this down to a 4th class chimney with a fixed line. Continue down the trail until it meets up with the approach trail.

Getting There

Take the forest service road about 1.5km past the Apron parking area to a small pull-out on the right. The approach trail is typically overgrown and tropical (like most at Squamish) but fairly straitforward.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Slhanay (The Squaw) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Slhanay (The Squaw)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Jungle Warfare
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 77
Birds of Prey
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
The Great Drain
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Halley's Comet
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
Pipeline
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 93
The Great Game
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
Photophobia
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 21
Right Wing
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Supernatural
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Fog Ducker Spire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
XTC Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Babies in Kailand
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Chicken Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
The Feather
Trad 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Flight Simulator
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jungle Warfare
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Birds of Prey
 77
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Great Drain
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Halley's Comet
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pipeline
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Great Game
 93
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Photophobia
 25
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Right Wing
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Supernatural
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Fog Ducker Spire
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
XTC Crack
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Babies in Kailand
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Chicken Hawk
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
The Feather
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
Flight Simulator
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Slhanay (The Squaw) »

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I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.

There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch 10+.

The descent is a very interesting scramble through a cave formed by some house-sized blocks. Aug 4, 2009