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Pinewood Boulders, Tomato Rock

Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > N Fork of the St Vrai…

Description

The local name is Tomato Rock which can be seen when passing mile marker 12 on Rt 36, the Dome on the North side of the road. 3 bouldering areas on the summit and 3 more areas on east & south faces.

N40.285333 W105.357920

Getting There

Take Kiowa Road in front of the firehouse about 1/2 mile to Seneca, cross bridge, and continue taking the next two rights until almost level with river. Park and find a trail on the left (north/west). Follow this up, do not go up faint trail on the left, but take the second left on an old trail up and to the saddle. From the saddle, turn left. There is a chimney on right side of rock.

Near top of the chimney, pass a nice 5.4 hand crack on the left. At top of the chimney is flat open area. From here, there are 3 small climbing areas each with 1 or 2 problems.

From flat area:

1. Walk east/south to short 6' drop, go down. A nice traverse starts on the right side of the drop and wraps around then goes up face. The right side of the face has a easy 5.1 downclimb chimney. Around on the right side is a large boulder. On the inside south face is a 5.9 dihedral.

2. From the 6' drop above, proceed around the to the left, and continue around a second corner on the left with a 4th class move until on a slab. There are two great crack boulder problems: a 5.9 short stout one on the left and another taller high ball problem on the right at 5.8.

Before going around the second corner is a 30' tall 5.3 OW that is okay, it's above the cave.

3. From flat area at top of entrance chimney, proceed left/north past a large, dead juniper. Drop down 5' and past a small boulder, then go down again. To your right is a great V4 traverse that starts on the left where the chalk is under a small overhang and finishes with two dynos and back up the 5' drop.
Another 5.7 crack climb is on the 30' right before entering where the boulder and 5' drop are.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After first of two exit dynos, the next is on the right edge of boulder up high.
[Hide Photo] After first of two exit dynos, the next is on the right edge of boulder up high.
The start is on the chalked holds to the left. The first move is a easy dyno to a small pod.
[Hide Photo] The start is on the chalked holds to the left. The first move is a easy dyno to a small pod.