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Hogum Fork
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Hogum Fork is a subdrainage on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon, located between Maybird Gulch on the east and Bells Canyon/Coalpit Gulch on the east. The Pfeifferhorn (Little Matterhorn on the quad map) is located at the head of Hogum Fork on its southeast edge. In the winter, Hogum Fork offers outstanding skiing, including runs like the Hypodermic Needle, the Hogum 200, and the Northwest Couloir of the Pfeifferhorn. In summer, Hogum Fork offers at least one rock climbing route in a spectacular remote high alpine setting. The granite here is similar to that in nearby Lone Peak Cirque.
Getting There
The best way to approach Hogum Fork is to start at the White Pine Trailhead (just below Snowbird) in Little Cottonwood Canyon. After almost a mile, take the right most trail towards Red Pine Lake. After a another mile and a half or so, take a right on a foot bridge and follow the trail for another mile into Maybird Gulch to where the trail ends at some small lakes with a great view of the Pfeifferhorn.
From here, it's pretty much all talus hopping. Angle up and south southwest to the low spot of the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn. Once you're over this ridge, hike down the short, steep, and prickerbush infested slope into Hogum Fork. Expect ~2 hrs plus or minus change and about 2500 vertical feet to get to this point from the White Pine Trailhead.
[Hide Photo] In 1978, my brother Jonathan and I attempted a new route on the buttress left of Hogum's Heros. We got 2 1/2 pitches up before our crack system petered out. I'm leading here.
[Hide Photo] Joe Hatch on the approach to Hogum's Heroes summer of 2007. The route goes up the obvious line in the center of the photo.
[Hide Comment] An alternative approach from someone who thinks this is the hardest approach of all time.
Do not go into Maybird, but continue up Redpine like you are going to climb the Pfeifferhorn. At the pass, start traversing across the south face of the Pfeifferhorn. The start is steep but reasonable, after several hundred yards it turns into flat alpine fields with lots of water. Just continue across until the Col at the top of Hogum. It is very easy to find, as the west ridge of the Pfeifferhorn basically stops there. At the Col, leave backpack, food etc. and descend into Hogum with your rack, rope, and the shirt on your back (hardmen wear their rock shoes, but I don't recommend it). You can rope up to get down into Hogum, but we 3rd classed it and it seemed OK. From the base of the Col, cross a short section of scree to the base of the climb. At the top, just walk the ridge back to your pack (maybe 1 mile) of easy walking with a little ridge traverse.
If you look at a topo you can see the approach fairly easily. It saves you a lot of up and down, up Redpine, down Maybird, up the north ridge, down into Hogum, and even more importantly the very tiresome traverse across the scree fields in Hogum.
You will actually see the airplane impact location, with a few pieces still on the rock on the last pitch to the rim.
BTW, this is a huge day and a amazing route, a Pennings masterpiece. All pitches are hard and take route finding skills. kent
Feb 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] and if you see a fixed nut, you are a ways to the right of the beginning of heroes. THAT route is called astrochoss and is not recommended. thought you should know, it's thrown more than one party off route.
Oct 8, 2009
[Hide Comment] July 1st. Good amount of snow on the way to the Cloud Wall. Worth bringing crampons for the steeper sections, was kinda sketchy without. Approach to Cloud Wall took 6-ish hours going at good pace. Beautiful area, linking Orographic Lift (2p 5.11 in Granite Guide) to Thunderbolt Ridge made for an awesome, exhausting day, around 16.5 hrs c2c.
Descent down the right side of Pfeifferhorn into the Red Pine Lake trail seemed easier than the way up (less talus hopping) but maybe slightly longer.
Jul 8, 2020
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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Salt Lake City
Do not go into Maybird, but continue up Redpine like you are going to climb the Pfeifferhorn. At the pass, start traversing across the south face of the Pfeifferhorn. The start is steep but reasonable, after several hundred yards it turns into flat alpine fields with lots of water. Just continue across until the Col at the top of Hogum. It is very easy to find, as the west ridge of the Pfeifferhorn basically stops there. At the Col, leave backpack, food etc. and descend into Hogum with your rack, rope, and the shirt on your back (hardmen wear their rock shoes, but I don't recommend it). You can rope up to get down into Hogum, but we 3rd classed it and it seemed OK. From the base of the Col, cross a short section of scree to the base of the climb. At the top, just walk the ridge back to your pack (maybe 1 mile) of easy walking with a little ridge traverse.
If you look at a topo you can see the approach fairly easily. It saves you a lot of up and down, up Redpine, down Maybird, up the north ridge, down into Hogum, and even more importantly the very tiresome traverse across the scree fields in Hogum.
You will actually see the airplane impact location, with a few pieces still on the rock on the last pitch to the rim.
BTW, this is a huge day and a amazing route, a Pennings masterpiece. All pitches are hard and take route finding skills.
kent Feb 9, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
Gorgeous part of the Wasatch! Bring camping gear and enjoy the meadow up there. Planet rock has plenty of good warmups for the area! Jun 21, 2020
Salt Lake City, UT
Descent down the right side of Pfeifferhorn into the Red Pine Lake trail seemed easier than the way up (less talus hopping) but maybe slightly longer. Jul 8, 2020