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The Wizard

California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles

Description

The Wizard is another small formation that sits at the foot of the Sorcerer -- actually between the Sorcerer and the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It has a host of obscure climbs on its west face and southern flank, as well as its upper shoulder. The most famous route on it is perhaps Yellow Brick Road (5.9) on the west side. I seem to recall a story about a climber who got his knee irreversibly stuck in a wide crack high on this route. His partner had to rappel back to the ground, run up to the ridge, and head all the way up to the lookout tower for help. Apparently he was able to procure the assistance of a couple other climbers and a large bottle of vegetable oil which provided the needed lubricant to get his partner out of the "jam."

Getting There

Depending on the location of your climb, you can approach from between the Magician and Sorcerer, or by following directions listed on the Sorcerer's Apprentice page.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Yellow Brick Road
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 3
Cardiac Arete (aka Talisman)
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yellow Brick Road
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Cardiac Arete (aka Talisman)
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The sunny west face of Wizard Needle.
[Hide Photo] The sunny west face of Wizard Needle.
Does anybody know anything about the crack system directly to the left fo the red line?
[Hide Photo] Does anybody know anything about the crack system directly to the left fo the red line?
South Face of the Wizard 2
[Hide Photo] South Face of the Wizard 2
South Face of the Wizard
[Hide Photo] South Face of the Wizard
So I Crawled up the Sorcerers apprentice/Wizard notch and took some photos of the South Face of the Wizard, I am curious does anybody have beta on these lines? I specifically would like to know where Spellbound AKA The Demon Starts.
[Hide Photo] So I Crawled up the Sorcerers apprentice/Wizard notch and took some photos of the South Face of the Wizard, I am curious does anybody have beta on these lines? I specifically would like to know whe…
There is a chockstone blocking the head of the gully. It requires a burly move to surmount. Or if descending, there is a rap station on it.
[Hide Photo] There is a chockstone blocking the head of the gully. It requires a burly move to surmount. Or if descending, there is a rap station on it.
Rap anchor on top of The Wizard.
[Hide Photo] Rap anchor on top of The Wizard.
Rappel down 5.4 slab to get to base of The Wizard.
[Hide Photo] Rappel down 5.4 slab to get to base of The Wizard.
The Sorcerer and The Wizard as seen from top of The Charlatan.
[Hide Photo] The Sorcerer and The Wizard as seen from top of The Charlatan.
Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force and Magnum Force are located here...somewhere.
[Hide Photo] Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force and Magnum Force are located here...somewhere.