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Routes in Fume Wall Right

Route 0.5 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 1 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 1.5 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 2 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wasted Asparagus S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 6,903 ft
GPS: 37.456, -107.805 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,912 total, 71/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.

Description

This small crag hosts a handful of sport routes. The rock can be slick and dirty, especially after periods of rain or after spring runoff. Many of the routes are still in the process of being cleaned and should improve with time. Climbing here is incredibly convenient as it is close to the road and requires basically no approach. There are mostly moderate routes, making this a good place for novice leaders.

The cliff gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The base of the cliff is in the trees and stays pretty shady. Fall is probably the best time to climb here. Temperatures in the Spring are pleasant, but the rock tends to be a little dirty. Summer afternoons in the shade can be comfortable as well.

Per eli poss: these are the routes to the right of the fence. They provide the a more obscure climbing experience. Because these routes are less popular, they often offer solitude even on the most crowded days. This comes at the cost of a little bit of dirt and some general looseness. Don't forget the brain bucket here.

The routes include (L to R): Route 0.5 (5.8) through Wasted Asparagus (5.7+).
Closed: private property? Details

Getting There

From Durango, head north on US 550 for about 12 miles, take the right turn off the highway (CR250) and park in a small dirt parking area. Hike back under the highway to the climbing area.

Per eli poss: park in the Fume Wall parking lot, and walk through the tunnel under the highway. Immediately exiting the tunnel, take a right through a space in the fence and follow a faint trail through the bushes and into the woods until you come to the cliff right between Route 2 and Route 3.

Routes listing (L->R)

Low Angled Wall

fence

M. Route 0.5, 9, 1p, bolts.
N. Route 1, 9+, 1p, 40', bolts.
O. Route 2, 9, 1p, 40', bolts +/- gear.
P. Route 3, 9, 1p, bolts.
Q. Wasted Asparagus, 7, 1p, 65', bolts.

R? Under Overhangland, 12.

Unnamed 11a, 1p, 55', bolts. - location?
Squeeze Job, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts. - location?

6 Total Climbs

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On Sept. 16th, climbed Beginner's Luck, and the biners were there. Super fun climb. Sep 19, 2016
Ian Altman   CO
Please people...stop taking the carabiners from the anchors!!! Most of them are steel anyway, and whoever is taking them just states their inexperience, ignorance, and general disrespect for the folks who are maintaining the climbs here. They are not bootie and were left there for a reason! Oct 5, 2015
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
Nice couch at the base of Beginner's Luck...makes the place look like a dump, paired with all the trash at the parking area.

I wonder how much longer we'll be allowed to climb here? Jun 19, 2015
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Somebody stole the biners off the chains on Beginner's Luck again. If you know who did this or if you did this and didn't know any better, please make sure they get returned. If you have a problem with them being there, talk to me, or if you just need biners, let me know and I will buy you some shiny new biners. Regardless, please return them. This is the second time biners have been stolen off the anchor, and it needs to stop. Jun 4, 2015
Ian Altman   CO
Hello Fume Wall enthusiasts,

My climbing class and I recently noticed some newer routes established (with bolts and anchors) near and around the "Under Overhang Land ,5.12b). Looked like five new routes, and we climbed one that seemed like harder 5.11. Wondering if anyone wanted to share beta on these new routes...an area of the wall that was craving development! Glad someone is getting after it! Apr 14, 2014
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
A new route, 'Unknown 5.10c/d', has been added at the far left end of Fume Wall, just to the left of 'Nine Lives'. A lot of the descriptions are based off of 'Nine Lives', saying "This is the x route from the left." Just a heads up, as things need to be shifted now.

Edit: Thanks for updating this page and all the routes. Everything is in order now. Jul 1, 2013

 
I think the place is pretty good! If it's still dirty, then whoever bolted it needs to get off there fat ass and clean! It been dirty for years. Aug 25, 2011
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
I'm just happy to get out and climb. Ever heard the saying "sport climbing is neither" :) Jul 28, 2011
Step hen
Fort Collins, CO
Step hen   Fort Collins, CO
Disagree. This is the closest, decent place for sport climbing to Durango with the easiest approach. It's a great place for an after-work pump. You don't have to climb a mountain like at Turtle Lake, and it's better than X-Rock IMO. Oh, and Golf ain't much better than Fume. Jul 27, 2011
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
With all the great climbing in the area, it amazes me anyone would climb here. I lived across the highway from this wall when we were developing at Golf and Cascade in the early '90s. Even with the 2 minute approach, I never wasted my time. Someone should strip all the hardware and put it to use somewhere deserving. Jul 25, 2011
darren
Durango, Colorado
darren   Durango, Colorado
Found a cam at Fume Wall. Let me know where you lost it, make, and model, and it's yours. Apr 18, 2011
IanA
Durango, CO
IanA   Durango, CO
According to the GIS Data this cliff sits on CDOT right of way. Therefore is open to the public. For more information check out arcims.laplata.co.us/laplat…

Parcel #537124402007 is the parcel adjacent to the Fume Wall which is on CDOT right of way (Public Land). Sep 23, 2009
Ian Altman   CO
I've taken part in some of the development of this area. The routes are still in the process of being cleaned, but have real potential for being a good addition to Durango climbing selection. The best routes have turned out on the lower angled (south end of the wall) and constitute some great moderate sport climbing ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.12b. All the routes are rigged with chains.The land owner is on to us though, and he has no intention of allowing anyone to climb there. Our litigious society rears its ugly head once again, as his legal counsel has deemed the Fume Wall an "attractable nuisance." Nov 6, 2006

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