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Moss Island Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Moss Island

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Little Harder One TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Applesauce TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baseball TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Beer Crack TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Beauty TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Canes Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chunky Chimbly T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Climbski TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Clown, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cold Tomorrow TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Comic Kink TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cool-Headed TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Corner Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crucifix T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Curbar Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Da Ma Was Here T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Dance on a Volcano TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Dany's Demise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dark Star T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dreamer, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Educational Corner TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Fearsome Fern Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Finger Frolic TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flake Off TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fool's Overture TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fred P. Jones TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Freddie Kreuger TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Goat Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Good Boulder Problem V3 6A
	Hang Man TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jeff Smeared Eileen TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joker, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Kansas T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Kinky Kruise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	La Mouche TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	Little Feat TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Looking Glass TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Loose Lobster TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Mark's Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Marvin Gardens T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	More or Less T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mother's Day Mayhem TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Mr. Smiley V5-6 6C+
	Muntjack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Older but Weissner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Over The Hill T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Outside Looking in TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Peach Fuzz TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Peal of Laughter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Playback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Poof! You're an Avocado TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Power Tower T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Prince of Darkness TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Raid TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Roof Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Seduction Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Seque T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Sister Moonshine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Sit on It T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a A3
	Slap That V0-1 4+
	Sno-White TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sphinx, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spider Web TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spiderman TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Super Sonic Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Superman TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Thinker, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tiny Corners TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tom Cane Loves You TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Triple Overhang TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tumbleweed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Un-named TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Un-named T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Unhinged or the Hinge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unnamed TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Vegematic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Warmup, The TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Who Put That There? TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Windex TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Zippity Doo Dah TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	373 ft
GPS:	43.03907, -74.84845 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Permit Not Currently Required Details

A permit was once required to rock climb at Moss Island, but since 2010, does not appear to be required anymore. There is an issue getting medical vehicles to the island, so be aware. This fact may affect the permit situation in the future.

Description

Moss Island is the most popular crag at Little Falls, and a good place to spend a day toproping or to bring new climbers to. The main cliff band is on the southern edge of the island and faces south, making it very hot on sunny summer days. The northern side of the island features several boulder problems, which stay much cooler in the summer. It is often called an "outdoor climbing gym."

I have yet to hear a definitive determination of the rock type at Moss Island. Some say it is gneiss; some say it is black granite. Regardless, Moss Island was victim to severe grafitti in years past, and while the paint is slowly wearing off, some still remains. The un-painted areas offer decent friction properties and a range of small edges and rounded slopers. The angle of the walls is quite varied, with several slabs, vertical walls, and steep overhangs.

Leading: Only a handful of routes accept good gear for leading. The rock is generally very solid, and holds gear well. Other than top anchors, not there are no protection bolts on Moss Island.

Toproping: Many of the routes have top bolts for anchors on Moss Island. You'll need long webbing to set up climbs since many of the bolts are at least 1'-4' back from the edge. Access to the top is easily gained at either end of the cliff, or via one of the many 3rd class ascent/descent routes along the wall.

Routes range from 5.0 to 5.12c, with everything in between. That said, sandbagging is a bit of a tradition here. Every inch of this wall has been climbed at some point or another, don't even think about a first ascent. The now out-of-print guidebook lists around 100 named routes; some good, some bad, some incredibly contrived. A new digital guidebook written by Gary Thomann details 81 routes with full-color zoom-able photos/lines and GPS-enabled maps, and is available in the Gunks+ app. Good and popular routes of various grades include:

Jeff Loves Eileen (5.4)

The Thinker (5.7)

Older but Weissner (5.8)

Sno-White (5.8)

The Dreamer (5.9)

Curbar Edge (5.9)

Triple Overhang (5.10a)

Fool's Overture (5.10a)

Fred P. Jones (5.10+)

Spiderman (5.11d)

One Over The Hill (5.12c)

Getting There

Follow Route 169 from the NY State Thruway until you reach the large bridge spanning the river (Theodore S. Wind bridge). Just before the bridge, there is a very small road on the left with a small sign. Slow down more than you think, as there's a blind but avoidable hole that your car's suspension won't enjoy! Park in the lot under the bridge and walk up the road to the lock. Walk across the lock and followed the paved road next to the river to the cliffs.

Make sure not to park under one of the downspouts from the bridge. If it rains, your car will get thoroughly blasted.

87 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moss Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 34 ● Goat Crack Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 14 ● Goat Crap or The Ladder Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 51 ● Jeff Loves Eileen Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 28 ● Tumbleweed Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 24 ● The Thinker TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 14 ● Black Beauty TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Older but Weissner TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 20 ● Sno-White TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 18 ● Beer Crack TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Super Sonic Flake Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● Fool's Overture TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 16 ● The Dreamer TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● Baseball TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 16 ● Fred P. Jones TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● One Over The Hill Trad, TR