GPS: 35.805, -106.143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise (~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.

The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.

The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

Getting There

After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.

31 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Grotto Left (East Side) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Grotto Left (East Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Hidden Slab
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Waiting to Procrastinate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Good
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight…
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Evil Paradise
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Paradise City
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
Evil
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
Affirmative Action
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Prescribed Burn
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Bedeviled
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Better Late than Never
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Bush in a Blender
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Muscle Crow
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Lucifer's Hammer Drill
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hidden Slab
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Waiting to Procrastinate
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Good
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka T…
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Evil Paradise
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Paradise City
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Evil
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Affirmative Action
 36
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Prescribed Burn
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bedeviled
 18
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Better Late than Never
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush in a Blender
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Muscle Crow
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Lucifer's Hammer Drill
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Grotto Left (East Side) »

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