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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise (~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.

The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.

The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

Getting There

After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grotto Left (East Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waiting to Procrastinate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paradise City
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Littl…
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Paradise
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Affirmative Action
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chopping Block
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prescribed Burn
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bedeviled
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Better Late than Never
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Muscle Crow
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waiting to Procrastinate 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Good 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Paradise City 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka T… 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Evil Paradise 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Evil 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Affirmative Action 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Chopping Block 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Prescribed Burn 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bedeviled 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Better Late than Never 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush in a Blender 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Muscle Crow 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Lucifer's Hammer Drill 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Grotto Left (East Side) »

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