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Routes in Liberty Cap

Beauty And the Beast T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cool Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Jeopardy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
F/S T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Within T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irish Pride S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kokopelli T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leprechaun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberty Cap Tower T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Never Cry Wolf T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
On Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Osiris T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2-
St. Patrick's Day Massacre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steppin' On it T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stonehenge T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 PG13
Whirling Dervish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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GPS: 39.056, -108.666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,431 total · 103/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This crag has some of the best single pitch crack climbes in the area. Included in this section are Walmart Tower and Safeway Spire.

Getting There

Drive west out of Grand Junction on Broadway (CO 340) into the Redlands. Drive approximately 3 miles turning left (south) onto Redlands Parkway. After 0.5 mile, the road curves right (east) and becomes South Broadway at South Camp Road. Continue west on South Broadway for approximately 0.5 mile to Wildwood Drive, turning left at the Liberty Cap Trailhead Sign and parking lot on the right. A 30-40 minute hike, level at first then steep, will bring you to a sign reading "to Rim Rock Drive - Liberty Cap Trail (right) Ute Canyon Trail (left)". Take Ute Canyon, follow it until the buttress is on the left, look for a path that leads up the cliff face. (Courtesy of Desert Rock III, Eric Bjornstad.)

Per Jonathan Stickel: the trailhead is now called "Wildwood Trailhead" and is there on Wildwood Dr.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Liberty Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Steppin' On it
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
On Fire
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Stonehenge
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
F/S
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Double Jeopardy
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2-
 4
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Irish Pride
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Kokopelli
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Cool Breeze
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Never Cry Wolf
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Osiris
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Steppin' On it
 30
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
On Fire
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stonehenge
 13
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
F/S
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Double Jeopardy
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Safeway Spire - Five Finger…
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2- Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Irish Pride
 9
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Kokopelli
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cool Breeze
 21
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Never Cry Wolf
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Osiris
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Great crag to get some miles in. Apr 18, 2006
D-Storm  
Has the trailhead changed? I hadn't gone there in years and then I tried to take my girlfriend there in June. I remembered the turn at Wildwood Drive and there was a gated/locked dirt road, which I believe was the old trailhead. I double-checked the Desert Rock III guidebook, and it described what I remembered. How do we access Liberty Cap and Ute Canyon, now? Aug 24, 2011
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
The trailhead is now called "Wildwood Trailhead" and is there on Wildwood Dr. Oct 13, 2014

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