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Crag Full of Dynamite

California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara

Description

Excellent moderate sport routes. Zero Approach--belay from the hood of the car! Only enough climbing for a half-day but still worth the drive. This site offers an excellent escape from the usual weekend crowds at Gibraltar. The routes are all on typical (i.e. soft) Central Coast sandstone.

Perhaps the single best perk is the outstanding view into Los Padres, to the north.

Weather / Climbing Season

The site faces north making the site an ice box in the winter. Just beyond the reach of coastal cooling, the site can be sweltering in the summer. Consider Crag Full of Dynamite to be a mostly Spring/Fall crag.

Getting There

From Gibraltar Rock, drive uphill on Gibraltar Road for about five minutes. Turn Right on Camino Cielo and drive for approximately 6 miles (about ten minutes). The crag overlooks the road on the right hand side.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
● Once Upon a Climb in the West
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
● For a Few Crystals More
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
● Fistful of Crystals
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
● The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
● Arch Stanton
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Unknown
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
● The Ecstacy of Gold
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
● My Name's Nobody, Bub
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
● He Who Double-crosses Me...
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Once Upon a Climb in the West
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● For a Few Crystals More
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Fistful of Crystals
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
● The Good, the Bad, and the…
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Arch Stanton
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
● Unknown
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
● The Ecstacy of Gold
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● My Name's Nobody, Bub
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● He Who Double-crosses Me...
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Standing room only at Crago'
[Hide Photo] Standing room only at Crago'
Eight-year-old Bryson Fienup nears the top of "He Who Double Crosses Me" (5.8) at Crag Full of Dynamite.
[Hide Photo] Eight-year-old Bryson Fienup nears the top of "He Who Double Crosses Me" (5.8) at Crag Full of Dynamite.
Michael McKay climbs "The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly" at Crag Full of Dynamite in Santa Barbara.
[Hide Photo] Michael McKay climbs "The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly" at Crag Full of Dynamite in Santa Barbara.
Regardless of the time of year, the drive along East Camino Cielo, out to the crag, is simply stunning.
[Hide Photo] Regardless of the time of year, the drive along East Camino Cielo, out to the crag, is simply stunning.
From Crag Full of Dynamite, the views to the north, into Los Padres National Forest, are spectacular. The views alone may be reason enough to spend a day at this crag.
[Hide Photo] From Crag Full of Dynamite, the views to the north, into Los Padres National Forest, are spectacular. The views alone may be reason enough to spend a day at this crag.
The heavy marine layer in Santa Barbara this summer has created some very unusual days of climbing. Here Eugenia Davis climbs The Good the Bad & the Ugly, at crag Full of Dynamite, with visibility down to a couple hundred feet.
[Hide Photo] The heavy marine layer in Santa Barbara this summer has created some very unusual days of climbing. Here Eugenia Davis climbs The Good the Bad & the Ugly, at crag Full of Dynamite, with visibility…
Michael McKay on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly," Crag Full of Dynamite.
[Hide Photo] Michael McKay on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly," Crag Full of Dynamite.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Prentice
Your Nat'l Forest
[Hide Comment] Choss pile. As of 1/16/11, the 16" of rain this year on the SB flats (def more on the camino cielo spine) have created a weathering rind out of this surface. Bolts "look" okay, but the climbing features are crap. No amount of drying will matter - if you head here this year, expect to be doing a lot of recleaning, muttering, and wondering why you don't live closer to real rock. Jan 18, 2011
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] Climbed this last year. The rock and location were great for our group. There was little to no traffic on the road and enough space that we didn't need to stand in the road to belay.
The bolts and holds were all fine and I highly recommend this for a group looking to tick some moderates. Jun 21, 2016
Mischa F
[Hide Comment] Be aware, this crag is not north facing, we went there with the idea of being in the shade. In reality, it's northwest facing. Went there today in late July, and were consequently in the sun all day. Jul 22, 2021