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Routes in Iron Butte

Au-Natural T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baboon Safari T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beholders Eye T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Binkys Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagles Nest Dihederal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grip Master T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanz Solo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Local Crow-Motion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Locally Owned S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
NYX S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No-Stick-Um T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Beard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Crow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spudz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 4,834 ft
GPS: 39.309, -119.48 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,112 total · 61/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.

Spring and fall are great when it's cooler, however, it can get windy at the butte. Remember, this is Nevada and the weather can change dramatically in a short time.

The rock quality ranges from poor to excellent. Expect the named climbs to be good to excellent quality.

Supplies can should be purchased in either Carson City or Dayton. There is a new Smith’s grocery in Dayton, about ten miles from Iron Butte. Bring plenty of water in the warmer months, as once you hike up to the butte, you won’t want to hike back down till you’re done.

Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):

LEFT SIDE:
Wild Women of Planet Playtex
Grip-Master
Red Beard
Eagles Nest Dihedral
Binkys Revenge
No-Stick-Um
Baboon Safari
Local Crow-Motion
Locally Owned

RIGHT SIDE:
The Wall
NYX
Rolling Crow
Au-Natural
Beholders Eye
Hanz-Solo
Spuds

Getting There

Iron Butte is located about ten miles out of Dayton. To get there go east on Highway 50 from Carson City. The butte is located on the south side of the highway. You can't miss it, it is the long band of dark rock on the butte just as the valley ends. The turn off is at the last road just before the butte and is about seven miles past Dayton State Park. Follow this dirt road until you see another dirt road going up a short steep rise on the left. If you're in a truck or have four-wheel drive, you can take this turn. If you're in a car, it is recommended that you continue further down the road until you are about even with the end of the butte and take the turn to the left (see photo). The last short stretch of road is very rocky and not recommended for vehicles with a low ground clearance.

Approach

The hike up the butte to the climbs is steep and seems longer than it really is. Pack light and wear good hiking shoes or boots. High top boots are best as the dry grass in the summer has lots of stickers.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Red Beard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
The Wall
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Grip Master
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Baboon Safari
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Red Beard
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wild Women of the Planet Pl…
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Grip Master
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Baboon Safari
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Iron Butte »

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Photos

Suprised this place doesn't see more use. Have never seen anyone else here. It is the best bet in the region for getting a day of climbing in when it is cold and storming in the mountains. Have climbed here half a dozen times in the last 12 years when it was cold and raining everywhere else, and have always stayed warm and dry. Have climbed about 20, easy and moderate, routes here.
A note of caution: We were there a couple of weeks ago and ran into rattlesnakes at two different spots on the approach and one at the top of the cliff, yikes! Oct 29, 2007
Rick D
Reno, NV
Rick D   Reno, NV
BETA:

Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):

LEFT SIDE:
  • Wild Women of Planet Playtex
  • Grip-Master
  • Red Beard
  • Eagles Nest Dihedral
  • Binkys Revenge
  • No-Stick-Um
  • Baboon Safari
  • Local Crow-Motion
  • Locally Owned

RIGHT SIDE:
  • The Wall
  • NYX
  • Rolling Crow
  • Au-Natural
  • Beholders Eye
  • Hanz-Solo
  • Spuds
Dec 9, 2008
Rick D
Reno, NV
Rick D   Reno, NV
If you ever top out on any of the routes, head south down the 4'th class terrain. Dec 10, 2008
BruceB
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
Good place in the winter. As long as there's no wind it gets toasty in the sun. Gets sun after about 11:30, chilly before that!

Easy hike up, don't see the need for good hiking boots and a light pack - nothing like Woodfords north side!.

This is a fun place to hit once a year for Reno/Carson locals. Nov 15, 2015

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