Elevation: 4,834 ft
GPS: 39.309, -119.48 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,280 total · 94/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Apr 16, 2006 with improvements by Lon Harter
Admins: Justin Johnsen

The climbs of Iron Butte

Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.

Spring and fall are great when it's cooler, however, it can get windy at the butte. Remember, this is Nevada and the weather can change dramatically in a short time.

The rock quality ranges from poor to excellent. Expect the named climbs to be good to excellent quality.

Supplies can should be purchased in either Carson City or Dayton. There is a new Smiths grocery in Dayton, about ten miles from Iron Butte. Bring plenty of water in the warmer months, as once you hike up to the butte, you won't want to hike back down till you're done.  If you are lucky you might spot a heard of Wild Horses. Rattle Snakes are very common here so be on the look out.

Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):

LEFT SIDE:
Wild Women of Planet Playtex
Grip-Master
Red Beard
Eagles Nest Dihedral
Binkys Revenge
No-Stick-Um
Baboon Safari
Local Crow-Motion
Locally Owned

RIGHT SIDE:
The Wall
NYX
Rolling Crow
Au-Natural
Beholders Eye
Hanz-Solo
Spuds

Getting There

Iron Butte is located about ten miles out of Dayton. To get there go east on Highway 50 from Carson City. The butte is located on the south side of the highway. You can't miss it, it is the long band of dark rock on the butte just as the valley ends. The turn off is at the last road just before the butte and is about seven miles past Dayton State Park. Follow this dirt road until you see another dirt road going up a short steep rise on the left. If you're in a truck or have four-wheel drive, you can take this turn. If you're in a car, it is recommended that you continue further down the road until you are about even with the end of the butte and take the turn to the left (see photo). The last short stretch of road is very rocky and not recommended for vehicles with a low ground clearance.

Approach

The hike up the butte to the climbs is steep and seems longer than it really is. Pack light and wear good hiking shoes or boots. High top boots are best as the dry grass in the summer has lots of stickers.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Red Beard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
The Wall
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
Baboon Safari
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Grip Master
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Red Beard
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wild Women of the Planet Pl…
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Baboon Safari
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Grip Master
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Iron Butte »

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