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Stratocaster Area

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (05) Sandstone… > Calico Hills Trail
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This nice wall faces primarily southwest, but has some different aspects to it. Though there is generally lots of sun from late morning on, certain routes get more sun/shade than others.

The rock is mostly good and varies from thin to juggy, from slabby to steep, and has good routes across disciplines and styles starting at about 5.11. Though most of these are sport, there area a few trad lines available as well.

Getting There

Approach as for Running Man Wall, continuing southeast (right) along the slabs at the base of the wall. ~20 minutes if done correctly.

The wall can also be approached with more difficulty from The Gallery and Wall of Confusion by scrambling northwest. Not too far distance-wise, but a little tricky to find the right way and can involve a few fifth class moves depending on the route taken.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Split Ends
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 21
Split Infinitive
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 2
Split Lip
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Nevada Book
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Spikes and Twine
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Swedish Erotica
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 195
Flameblower
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
Flame Ranger
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Tier of Titans
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Titan Rocket
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 2
Break Loose
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 28
Pablo Diablo
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Pablo Diablo Extension
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 83
Cut Loose
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 207
One-Eyed Jacks
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 154
Footloose
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Flying V
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 64
Party Down
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Choad Hard (1st Anchor)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Choad Hard
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 36
Choad Warrior
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Endless Choad
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 113
The Deluxe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 255
Marshall Amp
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Ancient Aria
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 99
Stratocaster Direct
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 100
Stratocaster
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Beyond Reason
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Purple Haze
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Split Ends
 40
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Split Infinitive
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Split Lip
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Nevada Book
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Spikes and Twine
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Swedish Erotica
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Flameblower
 195
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Flame Ranger
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tier of Titans
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Titan Rocket
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Break Loose
 2
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Pablo Diablo
 28
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Pablo Diablo Extension
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cut Loose
 83
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
One-Eyed Jacks
 207
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Footloose
 154
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flying V
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Party Down
 64
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Choad Hard (1st Anchor)
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Choad Hard
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor)
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Choad Warrior
 36
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Endless Choad
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Deluxe
 113
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Marshall Amp
 255
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ancient Aria
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Stratocaster Direct
 99
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stratocaster
 100
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Beyond Reason
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Purple Haze
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

the right side of Stratocaster wall, approaching from 2nd pullout. march 8 2024
[Hide Photo] the right side of Stratocaster wall, approaching from 2nd pullout. march 8 2024
Stratocaster Wall, photo: Bob Horan Collection
[Hide Photo] Stratocaster Wall, photo: Bob Horan Collection
One of the anchors pulled out today.... 1/15/17 on the deluxe today 2 days after the last rain... glue was still wet.. maybe it was glued in then it rained
[Hide Photo] One of the anchors pulled out today.... 1/15/17 on the deluxe today 2 days after the last rain... glue was still wet.. maybe it was glued in then it rained

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] Ben, you should check this mountainproject.com/v/nevad… out while you're there. Are you gonna be back in town for New Year's? I'm planning to be at shelf for that weekend. Dec 25, 2008
[Hide Comment] Anyone know what the undocumented route right of Choad Warrior is? Or the two undocumented routes between Marshall Amp and Stratocaster? Nov 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] Janes is referring to the new routes that have epoxy drip patterns spread out underneath the left one with shitty homemade permamank, and the one on the right with the extra visible black chains on bolts three feet apart on 5.8 moves.

I'd be happy to out the culprits on here, but the local ethic seems to be to keep that kind of information quiet. The right route isn't bad minus the chain nonsense, the one on the left looks like a glued up pile that isn't calling my name with so many good pitches nearby.

Respect for getting the epoxy everywhere, that was a really nice touch. Green energy, recycling and wind power, spattered glue all over the place. One world. Nov 29, 2012
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
[Hide Comment] Noticed the red tag and bail biners were removed from the long standing project between tier of titans and titan rocket. Anyone got the deets? Also, what's the story with the half bolted line next to it? Anyone coming back to finish it? Mar 17, 2022