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Routes in Saint Vrain Peak - Middle St. Vrain

Elevation: 11,000 ft
GPS: 39.929, -105.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,507 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Mar 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

South Saint Vrain Peak hosts three ice and mixed routes mentioned in Jack Roberts "Colorado Ice" and several more routes. The climbs can be found at the end of a 6-7 mile approach lending to a nice wilderness atmosphere and few if any other parties. The routes lie on the South side of South Saint Vrain Peak at around 11,000 feet and are likely in best shape around February. Routes are known as "A Dog Day Afternoon", "Every Dog Has Its Day", and "Too Much Dawg Gawn Trouble"; however, I don't know which is which, so I'll assign numbers for now. Anyone with more information about these routes should feel free to contact me or add to this information.

Getting There

Park at the Peaceful Valley winter trailhead and travel west toward the Saint Vrain Glaciers. The routes can be seen on the right after about six to seven miles. The trail is mostly flat and skis are useful.

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erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
If you're looking for a leg day plus some good climbing, this is a good spot to go. It's a 7-8 mile ski to St. Vrain Peak from the closed gate.

Between the campground and—including—the "Dog Day" routes shown here, there are up to 15 total ice/mixed routes on various walls from moderate to pretty hard (over 6 miles...), all on the south side of this long valley. The routes are similar to south-facing routes you might find in Hyalite Canyon and are very condition dependent. In general, you should expect steep, sun-baked ice with at least some mixed climbing and 25-45m pitch lengths. Bring rock and ice gear and two ropes. There's some avalanche hazard on the Dog routes, and the remoteness makes this a serious place to climb.

I guess you could also camp out there when conditions are good. Also, this area should be re-categorized into the Indian Peaks section. Mar 7, 2015

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