Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 43.654, -110.809 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,219 total · 99/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

There are a lot of fun routes on this small buttress/tower. With such a short approach, it's in the same class as Guide's Wall, No Perches Necessary and Baxter's Pinnacle: not overly alpine in nature. But the weather, some loose rock, and gully descent will remind you that you're in the 'Tons!

That said, it's a wonderful place to go if you've only got a half-day or don't want to commit to a bigger/longer route.

Getting There

Park at the Death Canyon Trailhead near the southern entrance of the park. Hike for a little over 2 miles (you'll climb up to Phelps Lake overlook, and then descend 2 switchbacks into Death Canyon proper). After hiking up the actual canyon for about 0.5 miles, you'll pass 2 switchbacks. A few minutes after the second switchback, look for a talus slope leading up to the Omega Buttress. The buttress is very high, but the unmistakable dihedral of Dihedral of Horrors makes a very good marker.

Hike up the talus until you arrive at a gully below the buttress. The easiest path up the gully takes some 4th class terrain on the right side of the gully for about 50 feet. Continue up the loose and somewhat nasty gully for another 10-15 minutes to arrive on the bottom of the Omega Buttress.

Total approach times is about 1 1/2 hour.

Descent

This is the descent for Dihedral of Horrors and Annals of Time

Two ropes required.

Locate the huge tree with lots of slings. A double rope rap leads to a gully. Follow the trail but DO NOT rappel off the lower tree! We made this mistake and had to climb back up some. Some downclimbing will get you to a grassy descent gully and back to your packs.

Note: Do not follow the HUGE gully to the left, instead aim for the saddle to your right and downclimb that gully!

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Omega Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Annals of Time
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Dihedral of Horrors
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Cardiac Arêtes
Trad, Alpine
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Omega Crack
Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Annals of Time
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Dihedral of Horrors
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Cardiac Arêtes
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Omega Crack
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Omega Buttress »

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