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Routes in (2) Brogan Spire

Barred Reality T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cave Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pouches S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking on Broken Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Elevation: 300 ft
GPS: 44.368, -121.124 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,281 total · 64/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description

Home to a wide variety of climbs from a 4 star 5.6 multipitch outing (Cave Route)to a brand new 14.b (The Optomist) as well as a decent selection of routes in between.
Well worth the hike.

Getting There

Follow the trail past Koala Rock. and the Great Roof will be obvious with the spire above (see picture). Routes are listed from the North face below the "Brogan Spire" and then going counter-clockwise around the crag (through the scramble between Brogan Spire and Mini-Half Dome)

10 Total Climbs

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Location: (2) Brogan Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at (2) Brogan Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
South Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
West Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cave Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Of a Raven
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Sharp Shock
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walking on Broken Glass
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pouches
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Buttress 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad 3 pitches
West Face 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad 3 pitches
Cave Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Death Of a Raven 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Short Sharp Shock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Walking on Broken Glass 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pouches 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in (2) Brogan Spire »

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Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route)
thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope. Nov 10, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack. May 20, 2006
corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used. May 15, 2006
mark d  
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c. Apr 19, 2006
anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good. Apr 11, 2006

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